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Lisbon’s only dedicated gay bookshop is small, but to the point. It is the place to find gay literature and magazines in both Portuguese and other languages. Another plus is a much-used noticeboard.

This gay bar attracts a crowd that is mixed in terms of age. Those wishing to surf the web can take advantage of Internet access. You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get in.

In a part of the city where tourists rarely venture, Alameda’s narrow common and its Mussoliniesque lighted fountain provide a sense of Lisbon as it was before 1974.

All truly great dishes combine just a few flavours, with a minimum of fuss. This one is a prime example: ameijoa clams cooked briefly in their own juices, olive oil and plenty of whole, crushed garlic cloves, and served with coriander and lemon wedges. Bread is the only accompaniment.

This celebrated café and pastry shop is the originator of pastéis de Belém – custard tarts known as pastéis de nata elsewhere.

Herbalists have always had a strong following in Portugal. This shop claims to be the country’s oldest, and sells vitamin supercures as well as traditional dried herbs for infusions.

This king of Portuguese rice dishes is more moist than a paella and less sticky than a risotto. It should contain shellfish, in the shell for flavour (lobster claws, pieces of spider crab, prawns, clams and cockles), as well as a streak of chilli and a liberal sprinkling of fresh coriander. Many restaurants cook it once a week and serve it in enormous portions.

This shop is well stocked with the most popular regional crafts, particularly hand-painted ceramics and embroidery.

The Formula One Portuguese Grand Prix was held at the Estoril racetrack between 1984 and 1996. Today it hosts MotoGP and A1 Grand Prix events, among others.