DK Travel : Lisbon : Itineraries

A Sintra Drive

Morning

Starting out from Cascais, drive along the Guincho coast towards Cabo da Roca (road N247). After Guincho beach, the road begins to climb. Follow the main road past the turning to Malveira da Serra. Turn off to the left for Cabo da Roca or, a tiny bit farther on, to the right for Peninha and Convento dos Capuchos. The latter choice offers opportunities for walks in the woods and views across the Serra; the former an invigorating lungful of sea air and the possibility of a drink at the O Moinho bar. Back on the main road, carry on towards Colares and stop there for lunch, taking the time to explore the village.

Afternoon

From Colares take the smaller road (N375 heading inland) towards Sintra, which will lead you past Eugaria and to Monserrate. Make an extended stop at Monserrate, giving yourself time to enjoy the gardens. The area above the parking lot outside the entrance is a popular picnic spot. Carry on along the lovely road that tunnels through the woods until you reach stately Seteais, where tea might be in order. A short distance further on you will come to Quinta da Regaleira – worth visiting for its gardens and esoterica – before you enter Sintra proper. Follow the road up, until you find parking above the main town, then walk down and do the sights or head straight to Lawrence’s for dinner. You can return to Cascais (and Lisbon) via the faster N9.
A Stroll through Baixa

Morning

Begin at the river’s edge in Praça do Comércio, where the old palace steps can still be seen. Cross the street at the right-hand corner of the square and head up under the arcades. Turning right on Rua da Alfândega, take in the Manueline portal of Igreja da Conceição Velha. You can stop for coffee next door to the church at Com Alma Caffé . Then head up Rua da Madalena, where you can drop into the Conserveira de Lisboa if you happen to fancy some tinned Portuguese sardines. Turn left at Largo da Madalena and descend two blocks to the narrower Rua dos Douradoures, haunt of Fernando Pessoa’s troubled alter ego in The Book of Disquietude. Here you will find plenty of restaurants to choose from for lunch.

Afternoon

After lunch, work your way through Baixa’s grid, zig-zagging between whatever shops catch your eye. Next stop is the top left corner of Praça da Figueira, and a coffee outside the back of Casa Suiça . Then walk up Rua Dom Antão de Almada, past fragrant shops selling herbs and other dried goods. On your right is one of Lisbon’s oldest churches, Igreja de São Domingos . Slightly left and then straight ahead is Rua das Portas de Santo Antão. If you’ve already worked up an appetite, you couldn’t be in a better street; and for a pre-prandial drink, you could do worse than duck into the tiny Ginjinha Sem Rival bar for a morello-cherry liqueur.
A Walk through West Lisbon

Morning

Begin by catching the 28 tram to its terminus at Prazeres. Visit the cemetery of the same name, if cemeteries are of interest, then stroll along Rua Saraiva de Carvalho past the large Santo Condestável church (with its attractive stained-glass windows). Drop into Campo de Ourique market and pick up some fresh fruit, or just whet your appetite for lunch. Then head right along Rua Coelho da Rocha and visit Casa Fernando Pessoa. Lunch here, or at the small Italian deli called Maria da Fonte, in Rua Quatro de Infantaria.

Afternoon

After lunch, walk all the way down Rua Coelho da Rocha, turn right into Rua da Estrela, and proceed downhill to one of the corner entrances of Jardim da Estrela, where you can absorb the mid-city peace of the park. When you’re ready, head for the main entrance of the park and you’ll see the Basílica de Estrela across the square. After a visit, make your way slowly through Lapa via Rua João de Deus, which enters it on the left of the basilica. Follow the tram tracks round and then down Rua de São Domingos – veer off to left or right for extended Lapa views. Return to Rua de São Domingos and continue down it until you reach steps (there’s a tile-making factory here, with a shop), which will take you down to Rua das Janelas Verdes and the Museu de Arte Antiga .
Alfama Wandering

Morning

Alfama is really the sort of place to wander around with an open mind rather than an open book. Like most labyrinthine medieval quarters it is actually quite small, but it seems large to the first-time visitor. Here are a few pointers, to get you on your way to losing your way. The street that begins on the right side of the Sé, briefly called Cruzes da Sé and then Rua de São João da Praça, is a good point of entry. There are also some worthwhile cafés and bars along here, including Pois and Ondajazz Bar . Don’t turn right off this street, or you’ll be led down and out of the maze. Instead, keep going and follow it round, and you’ll eventually reach Rua de São Pedro, which leads down to Largo do Chafariz do Dentro, where there’s a good choice of restaurants for lunch.

Afternoon

To return to the maze, head back up Rua de São Pedro and do a near 180-degree turn at the top to reach Igreja de São Miguel. Now you are into beco (alley) territory. Follow left turns by right turns and you should be able to weave your way to Santo Estevão. Should thirst overcome you, head down the steps to Mestre André . A brisk walk up Rua dos Remedios and then along Rua do Paraíso will get you to Campo de Santa Clara and, if it’s Tuesday or Saturday, the Feira da Ladra . If it’s not, stroll down to the riverside row of converted warehouses at Santa Apolónia for another kind of shopping experience.
Chiado to Bairro Alto and the Bica

Morning

Begin by the Carmo ruin – reached, if you’re coming from Baixa, via the Elevador de Santa Justa. Crossing to the bottom-left-hand corner of the square, take Travessa do Carmo, stopping for coffee at Vertigo . Cross Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro to Rua da Trindade and then Rua Nova da Trindade, on which turn right. Passing the famous Cevejaria Trindade on the right, you soon reach the top of Calçada do Duque. Straight ahead is Igreja de São Roque. Past the church, the street leads to the top of the Elevador da Glória on your left, and the Solar do Vinho do Porto on your right. For lunch, carry on up the street (here called Rua Dom Pedro V) and try Charcutaria Francesa at no.54, or La Paparrucha at no.18 – an Argentinian steak house with great city views.

Afternoon

After lunch, stroll and shop at your leisure in Bairro Alto, entering via Rua da Rosa on the other side of Rua Dom Pedro V. Meander, but keep track of Rua da Rosa, which will take you out of the area on the other side. Here, across the street, is the top of the Elevador da Bica. Ride it down to Rua de São Paulo and then head left towards Cais do Sodré and a drink at O’Gilin’s or The British Bar . Otherwise, you can walk halfway up the steep hill again and turn left into one of the narrow streets which will take you to Miradouro de Santa Catarina and afternoon refreshments in the open air, overlooking the river.
To the Gulbenkian and Beyond

Morning

Begin at the Pombal roundabout. An underpass leads to the statue, where you can study its various representations of tidal waves and destruction, as well as of the enlightened despot’s many reforms. Cross back to the bottom of Parque Eduardo VII and set out for the summit; in summertime it’s best not to leave it too late in the morning, as the walk is unshaded and it gets hot early. If you need a break, dive into the cool of the Estufa Fria and Quente greenhouses. At the top, ponder the symbolism of João Cutileiro’s Monument to 25 April – not one of his most communicative works – and its contrast with Keil do Amaral’s twin columns. Then climb the last bit of the hill to Linha d’Água; lunch here, or at the adjacent Eleven, whose Michelin star is deserved.

Afternoon

After lunch, continue past El Corte Inglés and on to the side entrance of the Gulbenkian Museum, at the north end of Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar. Expect to spend most of the afternoon in the museum – or else give it a quick browse and decide what to come back for. Stroll through the park and exit it on Rua Marquês de Sá Bandeira, then take Avenida Miguel Bombarda for a taste of the Avenidas Novas. Turn left on to Avda da República and walk a few blocks north to Campo Pequeno and its Neo-Moorish bullring. Even if you disapprove of bull-fighting you can enjoy a drink in the park surrounding the whimsical arena.