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Beyond Cabo da Roca, this pretty beach is reached via Almoçageme, off the Sintra road. The area is affected by Sintra’s cooler climate. The single restaurant is excellent.
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The name itself is a bilingual history lesson, mixing the Arabic for castle and the Portuguese for salt. The town’s once-Moorish castle is now a pousada, while the salt trade that dates back two millennia now plays a smaller role than rice-growing.
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Lisbon’s long-legged aqueduct was built just over a decade before the 1755 earthquake – which it survived, continuing to supply water to the shattered city. Some facts and figures: the 35 arches marching across the Alcântara valley are up to 64 m (210 ft) high, making them the tallest stone arches in the world at the time they were built; the aqueduct’s span is nearly 1 km half a mile; the main water source was 58 km (36 miles) of ducting away; the system was only taken out of service in 1967. The Museu da Água organizes walks across the aqueduct.
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This building has been the seat of the Portuguese parliament since 1833, when the Benedictine monks of the Convento de São Bento da Saúde were evicted – a year before the official dissolution of religious orders. The vast monastery was adapted in fits and starts; today’s formal Neo-Classical building was designed at the end of the 19th century. In a city of hills and impressive prospects, it sits surprisingly humbly at the bottom of a hill.
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The “New Avenues” – now a century old – are an uneven grid of streets immediately to the north of Pombal and Parque Eduardo VII. The area is a fairly typical example of late 19th- to early 20th-century planning: wide streets have tree-lined lanes down the middle, and grand residences line the main avenues. It became the heart of a newer, upper-middle-class Lisbon, away from the crowded conditions and perceived unsalubriousness of the old riverside districts. It has been much altered along its main axis, Avenida da República, and 21st-century shopping has come to Praça Duque de Saldanha, but this area of Lisbon is still a respectable residential one.
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This domed Lisbon landmark was built from 1779 to give thanks for the birth of a son and male heir to Dona Maria I. Sadly, the boy died of smallpox before the church was finished. Inside is the queen’s tomb, and a nativity scene with over 500 cork-and-terracotta figures; ask the sacristan to show you it.
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Now part of a larger city, rather than the distant suburb it was in the pre-motorized era, Lisbon’s westernmost district nonetheless retains pleasant contrasts with the city centre. Refreshing river breezes and a cluster of some of Lisbon’s main sights contribute to its appeal (see Belém: Sights ).
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Head here for a taste of rolling inland Estremadura – and some great white wine.
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The westernmost point of mainland Europe is a suitably dramatic clifftop location marked by a lighthouse. There is also a quotation from Luís de Camões’ epic poem The Lusiads, carved in stone. But beware: Cape Roca is subject to the climatic peculiarities of the whole Sintra region. Take a jumper, even if it’s hot when you leave Cascais; temperatures can be 10 degrees lower here, and the winds strong. Collectors of memorabilia can buy a certificate to prove that they have walked on the continent’s western extremity. There is a good café and restaurant, called O Moinho, near the turnoff from the Sintra road, and Ursa beach lies just north of the point.
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The cliff-top southwestern-most point of the Setúbal peninsula is in some ways more attractive than the more illustrious Cabo da Roca.
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