Castelo de São Jorge
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This hilltop castle is traditionally regarded as the site of Lisbon’s founding settlement. Recent archeological finds dated to the 6th century BC support this theory, although the oldest castle remains are from the Moorish era. Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, captured the Moorish citadel in 1147 and his successors added the Alcáçovas palace, which remained the royal residence until 1511. Following centuries of neglect, the castle was imaginatively restored in 1938, providing Lisbon with one of its most attractive viewpoints.
The west-facing esplanade is at its best in the late afternoon, with a low sun painting everything in warm hues. Early mornings here are shady, and can be chilly. The outdoor bars at Chapitô or Bar das Imagens are good places to digest a visit to the castle. For more Lisbon viewing points See City Views Before it was restored, the Castle was a jumble of army and government buildings.
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1. Porta de São Jorge
This grand gate gives onto the final steep climb up to the castle grounds. In a wall niche to the left is a figure of St George. His local connection may derive from English troops’ role in the conquest of Moorish Lisbon.
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2. Esplanade
The esplanade on top of the outer fortifications is one of the main rewards of a climb up to the castle. Dotted with archeological remains and shaded by pines, it follows the castle’s western perimeter, offering views of the river and the lower city.
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3. Statue of Afonso Henriques
This bronze statue of Portugal’s first king was added to the esplanade in 1947. It is a copy of a romantic 1887 work by Soares dos Reis (the original is in Guimarães).
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4. Olisipónia
The only building remaining from the historic Alcáçovas palace contains a thoroughly modern multimedia exhibit. This provides a lively summary of Lisbon’s history in several languages.
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5. Casa do Leão
This restaurant, in one of Lisbon’s most exclusive locations, serves classic Portuguese and international food. The interior was part of the 13th-century Alcáçovas palace, but sit outside if you can; the views are superb.
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6. Inner Battlements
The reconstruction of the inner castle is one of the great achievements of the 1938 restoration. With ten towers and a dividing inner wall, the restored castle matches, as far as possible, the original’s layout and size.
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7. Torre de Ulisses
In one of the inner battlement towers, a camera obscura attached to a periscope projects images of the city. The castle has a history of distant gazing: Lisbon’s first observatory was set up there in 1779.
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8. Torre de São Lourenço
Connected to the castle by a long series of steps, this tower once formed part of the outer fortifications. Today, it offers another angle from which to view the castle.
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9. Gardens
Don’t miss the peacocks in the shady castle gardens – and look out for the excavations of a Moorish village.
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10. Santa Cruz Neighbourhood
The tiny and partially restored neighbourhood of Santa Cruz do Castelo within the old citadel is one of the most picturesque parts of Lisbon. It is home to ageing residents as well as younger investors and luxury hotels.
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