DK Travel : Lisbon : Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

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Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga is Portugal’s national gallery, a treasure trove of historically illuminating art. Once associated with a certain fustiness, it has recently been sweeping out the cobwebs. Head broom-bearer has been the new director, Dalila Rodrigues, who, in the quest for new types of visitor, has introduced previously unheard-of events such as fashion shows, parties and late-night openings. Private sponsors are another innovation. Critics have been silenced by a rise in visitor numbers of nearly one-third.
There is a lot to look at here. As with any large museum with a wide-ranging collection, study the layout and decide what to concentrate on. For 15 minutes with Nuno Gonçalves or Hieronymus Bosch, it may well be worth giving the world’s largest collection of 18th-century French silverware a miss; or vice versa. For lunch or dinner, an alternative to the museum cafeteria is Nariz de Vinho Tinto, a short but steep climb up Rua do Conde opposite the museum. One of the figures depicted in the Adoration of St Vincent is said to be the likely artist, Nuno Gonçalves. For more Lisbon museums See Museums and Galleries

Top 10 Features

1. The Adoration of St Vincent

1. The Adoration of St Vincent

Arguably the most important Portuguese painting, this polyptych of around 1470 probably by Nuno Gonçalves portrays rich and poor in historically fascinating detail.
2. The Temptations of St Anthony

2. The Temptations of St Anthony

Hieronymous Bosch’s three-panelled feast of fear and fantasy is one of the museum’s treasures – and one of the world’s great paintings.
3. St Jerome

3. St Jerome

This unusual portrait transcends the conventions of religious art. Painted in 1521 by Albrecht Dürer – who used a 93-year-old Antwerp man as his model – it is above all a portrayal of old age.
4. St Augustine

This mid-15th century work by Piero della Francesca was identified in 1946 as the missing panel of an altarpiece painted for the church of St Augustine in Borgo San Sepolcro, Italy. Note the crystal staff.
5. Conversation

Pieter de Hooch was a genre painter whose treatment of light was perhaps more complex than that of his contemporary, Vermeer. This work shows his key qualities as an artist.
6. Capela das Albertas

6. Capela das Albertas

Find your way to the annexe to see the restored chapel of the former Carmelite convent of Santo Alberto, decorated with blue and white azulejos.
7. Japanese Screens

7. Japanese Screens

After encountering Portuguese travellers in the 16th century, Japan’s artists portrayed them as namban-jin, or “southern barbarians”. The screens were not meant to be shown outside Japan.
8. Portuguese and Chinese Ceramics

8. Portuguese and Chinese Ceramics

The museum’s 7,500-piece collection of ceramics illustrates the interplay of influences. From the 16th century, Portuguese faïence shows traces of Ming, while Chinese porcelain features coats of arms and other Portuguese motifs.
9. Indo-Portuguese Furniture

9. Indo-Portuguese Furniture

The most interesting of the museum’s furniture collections is probably the group of Indo-Portuguese pieces. The contadores are many-drawered chests that combine orderliness on top with decorative abandon below.
10. Garden/Cafeterias /Shop

10. Garden/Cafeterias /Shop

The museum’s downstairs cafeteria gives onto a pleasant garden overlooking the river; upstairs is another café and a well-stocked gift shop.

Practical Information

There is a lot to look at here. As with any large museum with a wide-ranging collection, study the layout and decide what to concentrate on. For 15 minutes with Nuno Gonçalves or Hieronymus Bosch, it may well be worth giving the world’s largest collection of 18th-century French silverware a miss; or vice versa. For lunch or dinner, an alternative to the museum cafeteria is Nariz de Vinho Tinto, a short but steep climb up Rua do Conde opposite the museum. Rua das Janelas Verdes 21 391 28 00 10am–6pm Wed–Sun, 2–6pm Tue Admission €3 (concessions €1.50; under-14s free; free before 2pm Sun & public holidays) www.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt