DK Travel : Lisbon : Torre de Belém

Torre de Belém

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The defensive tower at Belém is a jewel of the Manueline architectural style, combining Moorish, Renaissance and Gothic elements in a dazzling whole. It was built in 1515–20 by Francisco de Arruda, probably to a design by Diogo Boitac. At the time of its construction, the tower stood on an island in the river Tejo, about 200 m 650 ft from the northern riverbank, and so commanded the approach to Lisbon more fully than it does today. The land between the tower and the Jerónimos monastery has since been reclaimed from the river.
The tower is at its prettiest in the early morning or late afternoon. Tour groups tend to go early, so go as late as you can for a quieter visit. Nearby restaurants (including Vela Latina ) often fill up quickly; if you can’t find a table here, cross the railway line by the footbridge and walk to the nearby Centro Cultural de Belém and the pleasant Jardim das Oliveiras outdoor café. Lovers of the nautical and military should visit Museu da Marinha in Belém and Museu Militar by Santa Apolónia station. The Manueline style is named after Dom Manuel I known as The Fortunate, who was king at the height of the era of discovery.

Top 10 Features

1. Battlements

1. Battlements

The merlons of most of the tower’s battlements are decorated with the cross of the Order of Christ, carved to look like features on a shield. The smaller merlons at the rear and on top of the tower are crowned with pyramid-shaped spikes.
2. Renaissance Loggia

2. Renaissance Loggia

An arcaded loggia overlooks the main deck – comparisons to a ship are unavoidable here. The loggia breaks with the military style of most of the building and adds a theatrical element, while the railing and tracery of the balustrade are pure Manueline. Balconies on each side of the tower echo the loggia’s style.
3. Governor’s Room

3. Governor’s Room

Now empty, this room is where the tower’s first governor, Gaspar de Paiva, discharged his duties. After it became obsolete, lighthouse keepers and customs officials worked here. The room’s acoustics amplify the slightest whisper.
4. Dungeon

4. Dungeon

From the tower’s vaulted bottom level – also used as a dungeon – 16 cannon covered the approaches to Lisbon.
5. Watchtowers

5. Watchtowers

You can’t miss the Moorish-influenced watchtowers. Their domes are seated on Manueline rope-like circles and rise to a pile of small spheres reminiscent of the tops of chess pieces.
6. Virgin and Child Sculpture

6. Virgin and Child Sculpture

A statue of Our Lady of Safe Homecoming stands by the light well that was used to lower cannon into the dungeon. She evokes not only the intrepid explorers of Portugal’s past, but also everyday sailors – and a concern for absent husbands and sons that is one of the roots of the longing of saudade.
7. Rhinoceros Detail

Each of the sentry boxes is supported by a naturalistically carved stone. The rhinoceros at the base of the northwestern box is the most famous, as it is thought to be the first European representation of that animal – but time and the weather have made it look like a pig.
8. Manueline Details

8. Manueline Details

Ropes and knots were the main theme for the Manueline masons here. The tracery of some of the balustrades features the near-organic shapes that would be developed in later Manueline buildings.
9. Armillary Spheres

The armillary spheres carved above the loggia were instruments for showing the motion of the stars around the earth. They became a symbol of Portugal, and still feature on the national flag.
10. Exhibitions

10. Exhibitions

The tower’s former dungeon, now quite bright, is often used for temporary exhibitions, as well as for a permanent information display for visitors and a gift shop.

Practical Information

The tower is at its prettiest in the early morning or late afternoon. Tour groups tend to go early, so go as late as you can for a quieter visit. Nearby restaurants (including Vela Latina ) often fill up quickly; if you can’t find a table here, cross the railway line by the footbridge and walk to the nearby Centro Cultural de Belém and the pleasant Jardim das Oliveiras outdoor café. Avda Brasilia 21 362 00 34 Open 10am–5pm (6pm May–Sep) Tue–Sun Admission €3 (concessions €1.50; under-14s free) www.mosteirojeronimos.pt/index_torre.html