The East End is booming. Always a vibrant, working-class area and home to London’s dockworkers, the area has also prided itself on providing a refuge for successive generations of immigrants, from French silk weavers to Jews and Bangladeshi garment workers. Since the 1980s, the East End, where the murderous Jack the Ripper roamed, has undergone a radical transformation. Today, the media and finance worlds occupy stylish Dockland developments, galleries and restaurants have sprouted in Hoxton and a host of Sunday markets, including trendy Spitalfields, draw newcomers who marvel at the area’s unspoilt 18th- and 19th-century architecture.
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Morning
Start at Old Spitalfields Market, close to Liverpool Street station, where organic food stalls hold sway during the week, and many more, selling clothes and collectibles, fill the floor on Sundays. Cafés and stalls sell delicious coffee and breakfasts both in and around the market.
Emerging from the market on its southeast corner, cross into Fournier Street, where the gallery at No. 5 retains the original panelling of the 18th-century silk weavers’ houses. Stroll Princelet and Elder streets, just off Fournier, for a real taste of historic London.
Head into Brick Laneto browse among the saree and Bangladeshi gift shops. Stop for lunch at one of the many authentic curry houses that line the street.
Afternoon
After lunch turn right into Whitechapel Road. Notice the distinctive Art Nouveau façade of the Whitechapel Art Gallery and pop into the gallery’s stunning three-floor exhibition space to take in a contemporary art show. Have a cup of tea in the museum café and stop by the bookshop.
Finally, take a ride on the driverless Docklands Light Railway (from Tower Gateway, a short walk from Whitechapel), for some of the best views of East London. Emerge at Canary Wharf to see London’s latest architecture around Cabot Square, and finish the afternoon with a drink at Via Fosse on West India Quay.
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Everyone will find something to delight them here: from dolls and teddy bears to train sets and games through the ages. Each weekend there is a soft play-zone for under-fives and art classes for older kids. There are regular activities themed to complement current exhibitions.
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Once the centre of London’s Jewish population, this street is now the heart of London’s Bangladeshi community. Head here for inexpensive, authentic Indian food at restaurants such as Preem and Shampan, where a three-course meal can be had for a mere £10. Some of the best bagels in the city are made at the Brick Lane Bagel Bake at No. 159 – a famous dawn haunt for late-night revellers. There are vintage clothing/designer shops and, on Sundays, a lively flea market.
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A performance venue in Docklands with comedy evenings and monthly concerts.
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One of a chain of Indian restaurants focusing on Goan and regional cooking.
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The centrepiece of the Docklands development is Canary Wharf and the 240-m (800-ft) -high, 50-storey Canada Tower designed by the US architect, Cesar Pelli. Although the tower is not open to the public, parts of the complex are open to visitors, including the mall, where there are shops, restaurants and bars. The star of area’s exciting architecture is the magnificent Canary Wharf station, designed by Norman Foster.
Vaulted glass roof, Canary Wharf DLR station
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A large warehouse bar where art students meet city workers. Chips and other snacks are served at the bar and a restaurant area serves up Mediterranean food.
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Imaginatively set in three railway arches, this large space is devoted to music, drink and food until 1am. There is live music every night in the back-room club.
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Londoners head east on Sunday mornings for the bustling street markets. In addition to Petticoat Lane in Middlesex Street, with its bargain clothes and household items, and Brick Lane’s bric-à-brac, there is the teeming plant and flower market in Columbia Road. Ten minutes’ walk from the north end of Brick Lane, Columbia Road is a delightful cornucopia of all things horticultural at bargain prices.
Columbia Road Market
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This 18th-century silk-weaver’s home (see Spitalfields) is kept perfectly in period and was created by artist Dennis Severs. Each room in this “still-life drama” appears as if the inhabitants have only just left it – dinner is half-eaten and cooking smells emanate from the kitchen.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes, and extra charges.
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