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This beer and tapas bar owes a good deal of its popularity to its terrace on Plaza Santa Ana. Like Museo Chicote, the Alemana was a favourite of Ernest Hemingway and other expats. Spanish and imported beers (see Cervecería Alemana).

Large modern bar, with tiled walls. Caters for aficionados of beer; also a good selection of tapas .

This beer-bar has been serving customers for more than 50 years. Cockles and shrimps are the specialities (see Cervecería Santa Bárbara).

Large modern bar, popular with office workers, serving beer on tap. Good range of tapas .

This American-style café opened in 1997 and has been doing a brisk trade ever since. Ribs or hamburgers and fries are served, with US beers and cocktails. The music (mainly rock and blues) is provided by high-profile English and American bands and the audience is usually on its feet before the evening is out.

Life in this attractive little town revolves around the Plaza Mayor, the galleried main square, dating from the 16th century. Originally a cattle market, the square is the focus of a Holy Week procession on Good Friday, a passion play on Easter Saturday and bullfights in July and August. While you’re here, try the local speciality, anís , a liquorice-flavoured liqueur (ask for “Chinchón”). Also worth seeing is the Iglesia de la Asunción, with a painting of the Assumption of the Virgin by Goya, whose brother was the local priest.

You won’t find better hot chocolate anywhere in Madrid.

Head here after a night on the town for a traditional breakfast of chocolate con churros .

Muhammad I had built his fortress to guard against attack from northern Christian armies and to protect the important city of Toledo. In 1083 Toledo fell and the alcázar of Madrid was surrendered without a fight. The new Christian settlers lived harmoniously with their Arab neighbours (although mosques were converted into churches).