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If it’s collectable, they collect it – postcards, perfume containers, tobacco tins, cameras, sunglasses, cinema programmes, menus, cigarette cards, the lot. Difficult to drag yourself away.

This firm has been in the perfume business for more than a century, selling its own line of eau de cologne. Also top brand names like Chanel and Estée Lauder and Bulgari jewellery.

Start this evening walk around 5pm when the shops re-open after the siesta . Take the metro to Chueca, emerging on Plaza de Chueca, heart of Madrid’s gay quarter. Look out for Taberna del Angel Sierra, a traditional tiled bar with zinc counter and painted ceiling (see Taberna de Angel Sierra). From here take Calle de Gravina into Calle del Almirante. These streets are the wealthy shopper’s paradise, with designer names jockeying for position on both sides. Turn onto Calle de la Libertad, then take a right at Calle de Augusto Figueroa, famous for shoes sold at knock-down prices.

Cross Calle de Hortaleza and continue to Calle de Fuencarral. Turn right here, heading for the Museo Municipal and spend a few minutes browsing in the excellent bookshop. A little further on turn left into Calle Manuela Malasaña.

Trendy Malasaña is full of enticing restaurants and tapas bars so make a mental note of anywhere that takes your fancy for later. Turn left into Calle de San Andrés, passing the Taberna del Foro , then cross Plaza del Dos de Mayo. If you’ve worked up a thirst, the bistro-bar El 2De at No. 25 will fit the bill. Continue along Calle de San Andrés to Calle de San Vicente Ferrer. Return for dinner at your chosen tapas bar, then head for home on Calle de San Vicente Ferrer for the metro at Tribunal, or head off for a night on the tiles.

Like Roberto Verino, Spanish designer Angel Schlesser was labelled “dissident” but has now moved into the mainstream with his distinctive style of clothes and accessories for men and women. Trademarks include lowkey colours and attention to detail.

If you’ve been bowled over by the 18th-century Talavera ceramics in the Palacio Real, you’ll find that the modern descendants of these craftsmen have not lost their touch. This outlet offers a wide range of hand-painted jugs, plates, mugs and more.

Two tiled frontages. The pharmacy advertised “inoffensive cigarettes”, while the painted hens next door are a clue that this bar was once an egg shop (huevería ).

Beautifully tailored men’s and women’s wear (suits, winter coats etc.) in a traditional vein, using the best fabrics.

These 31 apartments, each comprising twin bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette and garage, are located near the bull-ring at Las Ventas. There’s easy access to Barajas airport and the IFEMA exhibition centre. Facilities include cleaning twice a week, business centre and TV.

This huge Water Park, about 40 km (25 miles) south of the city, opened in 1998. Apart from the exhilarating water slides, the facilities include mini-golf and a large swimming pool. If you have a car, the park could be combined with a visit to Aranjuez.

A welcome distraction, especially in the searing heat of summer, Madrid’s water park (close to the airport) opened in 1987. The kids can look forward to the usual range of giant water slides, toboggans, cascades and spirals. There’s a lake, wave pool and toddlers’ paddling pool, as well as cafés and restaurants.