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Inaugurated in February 2005, the Palacio de los Deportes (sports palace) occupies the site of a former sports centre that was destroyed by fire in 2001. The new building seats 18,000 spectators and was designed to accommodate several sports including athletics, basketball, handball, tennis and boxing. As well as improving safety and security measures the centre’s acoustics were improved in order to make it a suitable venue for pop and rock concerts.

Art Nouveau is usually associated with Barcelona rather than Madrid and, in fact, this superb example is by the Catalan architect José Grases Riera. Bold and original in design, take a close look at the florid sculptural detail, the sensuous curves and the balustrade – all typical Art Nouveau features (see Palacio Longoría).

The finest example of Art Nouveau architecture in Madrid was created for the banker Javier González Longoría in 1902. The architect was José Grases Riera, a disciple of Antoni Gaudí. Magnificently restored in the 1990s, the walls, windows and balconies are covered with luxuriant decoration suggesting plants, flowers and tree roots (see Palacio Longoría).

Spain’s magnificent Royal Palace dominates the landscape in this part of the city, its sparkling, colonnaded façade looking out on to the lush grounds of the Campo del Moro (see Palacio Real).

The former residence of Spain’s Bourbon rulers boasts more rooms than any other palace in Europe. With priceless collections of tapestries, clocks, paintings, furniture, even Stradivarius violins, there is something here for everyone (see Palacio Real).

These small rolls marked with a cross are sold at the Church of San Antonio.

Branch of Catalan fast-food chain offering filled baguettes, salads, croissants, cakes and ice cream, to eat in or take away.

Set in a former 19th-century palace, and popular with the Spanish glitterati; the cuisine is Catalan with the emphasis on fish and seafood.

One of the oldest hotels in the city, the Paris is great value for its location on Puerta del Sol. The rooms are more than adequate, but not all have air conditioning – a serious drawback during the summer. On the plus side, there’s a shady garden and the English-speaking staff couldn’t be more helpful.