Madrid’s three world-class art museums and two royal palaces alone would set the pulses racing, but there is more to this exciting and diverse capital than its tourist sights. The fashion boutiques of the Salamanca district showcase Europe’s top designers and are just the tip of a shopping iceberg, perfectly complementing the informality of the fascinating El Rastro market, while Madrid’s world-famous tapas bars vie for attention with gourmet restaurants and humble tabernas in a city which never sleeps. To simply watch the world go by, head for the supremely elegant Plaza Mayor.
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Founded in the 18th century, the palatial premises of the Academy of Fine Arts house a collection of paintings surpassed only by the Prado and the Thyssen Bornemisza. Outstanding among the Spanish paintings are the Goyas, including the classic fiesta scene Burial of the Sardine . The academy also has an impressive array of works by European masters including Bellini, Tintoretto, Van Dyck, Rubens and Titian. Picasso and Dalí studied here for a time.
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The Academy of Fine Arts was founded by Fernando VI in 1752 and moved into the Goyeneche Palace 25 years later. Among the highlights are works by Spanish artists El Greco, Velázquez, Murillo, Zurbarán and Goya, as well as an array of European masterpieces (see Real Academia de Bellas Artes).
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The royal customs house was a cornerstone of Carlos III’s plans to improve the appearance of the city. In 1761 the queen’s stables and 16 houses were demolished to make way for Francesco Sabatini’s Neo-Classical masterpiece. Huge amounts of money were lavished on the façade alone, the decorative features of which include ashlar columns and a balcony bearing the royal coat of arms. It is now home to the Ministry of Finance.
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The Royal Tapestry Factory was founded by Felipe V in the 18th century. Today’s artisans still use the original wooden looms.
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Anyone seeking a bit of peace and quiet will relish these delightful gardens, inaugurated in 1781 as a centre for botanical research. The three ascending terraces conform to Juan de Villanueva’s original design. Beyond the main entrance is the herbarium, the aromatic, culinary and medicinal plants neatly arranged in separate beds and individually labelled. The rose garden adds a dash of colour. The central terrace arranges plants by family, species and genealogical history. Look out for the 100-year-old tree known as “El Pantalones” because of its resemblance to a pair of inverted trousers – disease has split the trunk in half. More than 1,200 tropical and sub-tropical species are cultivated in the Exhibition Greenhouse, opened in 1993. The Villanueva Pavilion and the arbors, by contrast, date back to the 18th century. The statue by the pond honours the great Swedish botanist, Carl von Linné (Linnaeus), who devised the system of plant classification.
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Take care not to overlook this basement wine merchants with its excellent selection of Spanish wines and liqueurs. Tastings also on offer.
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Founded in 1910 as a liberal college, early alumni here included artist Salvador Dalí and poet Federico García Lorca. Designed by Antonio Flórez, the main building was nicknamed “transatlantic” by students because the balustrade resembled the rail of an ocean liner.
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The Albariño grape thrives in cool, wet northwest Spain, known for its fragrant whites – but they don’t come cheap.
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This region is noted for its high-quality red wines, made with the Tempranillo grape.
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Spain’s classiest wines hail from the upper Ebro valley (La Rioja) and have a distinctive, oaky flavour.
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