Madrid’s three world-class art museums and two royal palaces alone would set the pulses racing, but there is more to this exciting and diverse capital than its tourist sights. The fashion boutiques of the Salamanca district showcase Europe’s top designers and are just the tip of a shopping iceberg, perfectly complementing the informality of the fascinating El Rastro market, while Madrid’s world-famous tapas bars vie for attention with gourmet restaurants and humble tabernas in a city which never sleeps. To simply watch the world go by, head for the supremely elegant Plaza Mayor.
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Elegant café with velvet seats, stucco ceiling and summer terrace.
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This pleasant café (see Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza) has an à la carte menu and a good selection of snacks and light meals.
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The haunt of journalists and leading cultural figures, the Gijón was founded in 1888 and is one of the few surviving tertulia cafés where, traditionally, men gathered to discuss issues of the day. Former patrons include the poet Federico García Lorca, the American film director Orson Welles and – more improbably – the famous Dutch spy and belly-dancer, Mata Hari. Order tapas and drinks at the bar or book a table for lunch. The windows look out on to Paseo de Recoletos where the café has its own terrace.
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Small stylish bar, decorated with posters of the legendary dancer Isadora Duncan. Jazz plays in the background while you chat over champagne cocktails and unusual liqueur coffees.
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Manuela as in Manuela Malasaña (see Chueca and Malasaña). The statue of the local heroine is a feature of the lovely late 19th-century decor, which includes mirrors, fluted columns and stucco flourishes. The entertainment ranges from concerts and poetry readings (sometimes bilingual) to discussions and exhibitions by local artists. The friendly staff serves coffees, beers or cocktails depending on the time of day, as well as tapas (see Café Manuela).
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More like a club for young people who drop in to chat, read the paper or play board games. Draught beer, cocktails and snacks.
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Trendy bar-restaurant with modern interior. Serves Mediterranean cuisine and brunch on Sundays.
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The name “coffee and tea” says it all. Branch of a cafeteria chain in the heart of cinema land (see Cinemas and Entertainment).
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Located in the Art Deco Carrión building, this cinema’s greatest moment occurred early in the Civil War when Eisenstein’s stirring movie Kronstadt was shown to an audience including the President of the Republic and leading military figures. Films are screened in Spanish. Two screens.
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This narrow street, permanently clogged with traffic, is worth negotiating for its original and offbeat shops. High street fashions are represented by outlets such as Mango (No. 9) but for something more outré , check out the party fashions at No. 47, or the seductive underwear at Chocolate (No. 20). La Reserva (No. 64) sells silver jewellery handmade by Navajo Indians, as well as Mexican belts and snakeskin wallets. Café Pozo (No. 53) offers its own blends of coffee and tea, while Retoque (No. 49), founded in 1920, goes in for picture frames and modern art posters.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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