This imposing tree-lined avenue, adorned with fountains and sculptures, is home to no fewer than three world-class art galleries: the Prado, the Reina Sofía and the Thyssen-Bornemisza. In the 18th century the prado was a meadow, crossed by a stream, but the bucolic surroundings were deceptive, as the area was acquiring an unsavoury reputation for muggings and amorous encounters. The solution, devised by Charles IV, was a new boulevard between Plaza de Cibeles and Plaza de Atocha, lined with handsome buildings devoted to the pursuit of scientific inquiry. Work began in 1775 on a museum of natural history (now the Prado), the botanical gardens and observatory and medical school (now the Reina Sofía).
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Morning
Begin at Plaza de Cibeles and take a peek at the palatial central hall of the Main Post Office (see Palacio de Comunicaciones). Plans to redirect traffic away from the Paseo del Prado have been frustrated, but the central boulevard still makes a pleasant walk, with plenty of shade in summer. Cross the road to Plaza de la Lealtad and the garden terrace of the Hotel Ritz – a delightful spot for coffee.
Continue past the Neo-Classical façade of the Museo del Prado and you’ll come to Plaza de Murillo and the Real Jardín Botánico. Allow at least an hour here to make the most of the verdant tranquillity.
On leaving the garden, cross the Paseo del Prado and double back to Plaza Cánovas del Castillo and Ventura Rodríguez’s splendid Neptune Fountain. The small side streets here are crammed with plenty of tempting tapas bars and restaurants. You could try La Platería for a light lunch.
Afternoon
After lunch, take the small detour into Plaza de las Cortes, to admire the impressive portico of the Congreso de los Diputados . Return to the Paseo del Prado and on your left is the Museo ThyssenBornemisza which will occupy the rest of the afternoon. Take the central boulevard to return to your starting point, Plaza de las Cibeles.
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A classy restaurant near the Prado. The Mediterranean food is distinguished and there’s an excellent wine list. Book ahead.
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This small café, opposite the main gate of the Parque del Retiro (see Parque del Retiro), makes a good coffee stop.
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This pleasant café (see Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza) has an à la carte menu and a good selection of snacks and light meals.
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In contrast to the Prado, this wonderful art gallery is devoted to the very best of 20th- and 21st-century art (see Centro de Arte Reina Sofía).
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Admire the portico and Renaissance-style sculptures of the congress building from the street, then take a guided tour.
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Madrid’s southern railway station is also a palm garden and an arresting architectural monument. The old terminal, a magnificent cast-iron structure, 152 m (500 ft) long and more than 40 m (130 ft) high, overlooks Plaza de Atocha. It was designed by Alberto del Palacio in 1888 – the French engineer Gustave Eiffel, designer of Paris’s famous tower, was a consultant – and completed four years later. When, more than a century later, the decision was taken to run a new high-speed train service to Seville (AVE), prize-winning Spanish architect Rafael Moneo was commissioned to remodel the terminal. His makeover incorporated the square and the old station canopy, and added a cylindrical lantern over the commuter station, and a streamlined glass concourse from where the AVE now departs.
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One of Madrid’s most exclusive restaurants, Horcher specializes in the cooking of central Europe, in particular game.
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The Palace has been one of Madrid’s most luxurious hotels since opening its doors in 1913. Wander in to admire the fantastic stained-glass ceiling over the Rotunda (see Palace).
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The Ritz first opened its doors in 1910 and the inauguration was attended by King Alfonso XIII, who had backed the project after complaining of the lack of quality accommodation in his capital. French architect Charles Mewes’ Neo-Classical building is surprisingly understated from the outside, but the interior is predictably opulent. Outstanding features include handwoven carpets from the Royal Tapestry factory and the belle époque dining room. Stop for a drink on the terrace.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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