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Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas
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Housed in a 19th-century mansion overlooking the Retiro is this compelling collection of furniture, silverware, ceramics and glassware from the royal factory of La Granja, as well as jewellery, tapestries, clocks, toys and musical instruments. But the museum is more than a showcase of handicrafts. Arranged chronologically over four floors are reconstructed rooms illustrating Spanish domestic life from the 16th to the early 20th centuries. Unmissable on the fourth floor is the recreated Valencian kitchen, decorated with more than 1,600 hand-painted azulejo tiles. The below-stairs life of an 18th-century palace is vividly brought to life as servants struggle with trays of pies and sweetmeats while the domestic cats filch fish and eels.
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