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Events at this important arts centre range from temporary art exhibitions to ballet, jazz, dramatic plays, zarzuela and experimental theatre.

In contrast to the Prado, this wonderful art gallery is devoted to the very best of 20th- and 21st-century art (see Centro de Arte Reina Sofía).

Life in this attractive little town revolves around the Plaza Mayor, the galleried main square, dating from the 16th century. Originally a cattle market, the square is the focus of a Holy Week procession on Good Friday, a passion play on Easter Saturday and bullfights in July and August. While you’re here, try the local speciality, anís , a liquorice-flavoured liqueur (ask for “Chinchón”). Also worth seeing is the Iglesia de la Asunción, with a painting of the Assumption of the Virgin by Goya, whose brother was the local priest.

Muhammad I had built his fortress to guard against attack from northern Christian armies and to protect the important city of Toledo. In 1083 Toledo fell and the alcázar of Madrid was surrendered without a fight. The new Christian settlers lived harmoniously with their Arab neighbours (although mosques were converted into churches).

This beautiful 1920s cinema is now the headquarters of the National Film Institute. There are two screens showing an excellent selection of classic and contemporary films in the original version and at very reasonable prices. During the summer, films are also shown on an outdoor screen on the terrace (book ahead). The café in the foyer is a good place to meet up with friends (see Cine Doré).

After ruling Spain with an iron fist for 36 years, General Franco died in November 1975, leaving power in the hands of his designated successor, Prince (later King) Juan Carlos. The first democratic elections were held in June 1977.

The dictator’s death in 1975 marked the end of more than 35 years of authoritarian rule.

Now the headquarters of Spain’s national telephone company, this was Madrid’s first high-rise building. Designed by American architect Lewis Weeks in 1929, it reflects the values of the Chicago School then much in vogue. The Telefónica building played an important role in the Civil War when it was used by the Republican army as a vantage point for observing enemy troop movements in the Casa de Campo. Conversely, Franco’s forces found it an ideal range finder for their artillery. The Fundación de Arte y Tecnología Telefónica has an interesting exhibition on the history of communications, as well as a splendid art collection, with works by Picasso, Juan Gris, Eduardo Chillida and Antoni Tàpies.

The story of the founder of Spain’s premier department store, Ramón Areces Rodríguez, is a classic tale of rags-to-riches. Rodríguez emigrated to Cuba aged 15 and worked as a shop assistant before returning to Spain in 1934. The following year he opened a small tailor’s in Calle de Preciados and never looked back. Nowadays you’ll hardly leave your hotel without noticing the distinctive white shopping bags with the green logo. The store at Preciados No.1 sells CDs, No.2 stocks more than half a million books and No. 3 specializes in fashion. There are more than half a dozen other branches in the capital.