DK Travel : Madrid : History & Culture

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Iglesia de las Salesas Reales

The monastery of the Royal Salesians was founded by the wife of Fernando VI, as a refuge from her overbearing mother-inlaw should the king die before her (in fact, she died first). You can still see the lavish Baroque church (1750), sculptures and decorative details on the façade and the tombs of Fernando and his wife by Francesco Gutiérrez.
Iglesia de San Antonio de los Alemanes

The entire surface area of this magnificent domed church is covered with 17th-century frescoes depicting scenes from the life of St Anthony of Padua. The congregation included the sick and indigent residents of the adjoining hospice, who were allocated a daily ration of bread and boiled eggs. (The church still has a soup kitchen).
Iglesia San Plácido

Founded in 1622 by Don Jerónimo de Villanueva, a Madrid nobleman, the early history of this convent was darkened by scandal. Rumours of sexual misconduct among the novices led to an investigation by the Inquisition which implicated the chaplain, the abbess and the Don himself. It was even rumoured that Felipe IV made nocturnal visits to the convent via a passageway under the street. Today the main attraction is the splendid Baroque church (1655). The retable over the altar contains a magnificent Annunciation by Claudio Coello.
Insurrection

On 2 May 1808, two months after a French army occupied the city, the people of Madrid rose in revolt. Fierce street battles were fought, while the troops of the Monteléon barracks mutinied in support of the rebels. But within a few hours, the insurrection had been crushed and the leaders were executed by firing squad.
Isidro Merlo y Quintana

This devout farm labourer inspired miracles after his death in 1172 and became the city’s patron saint (San Isidro).
Joseph Bonaparte

Detested during his short reign as King of Spain (1808–12), he did plan one of the city’s finest squares, Plaza de Oriente.
La Latina

Historic La Latina really comes alive on Sundays when the trendy bars of Cava Baja, Calle de Don Pedro and Plaza de los Carros are frequented by pop singers, actors and TV stars. Plaza de la Paja – the main square of medieval Madrid – takes its name from the straw which was sold here by villagers from the across the River Manzanares. Nowadays it’s much quieter and a nice place to rest one’s legs. The two churches of San Andrés and San Pedro el Viejo have been closed for some time but their history and that of the area as a whole is admirably explained in the Museo de San Isidro (see La Latina).
La Riviera

If you’re interested in hearing pop and rock acts such as Massive Attack, Suede or the Rollins Band, this is where they’re most likely to perform while in Madrid. Acoustics and visibility are both good (better than in many similar venues) and fans can cool off in the summer when the roof is drawn back. Also holds discos.
Lavapiés

This colourful working-class neighbourhood has a cosmopolitan feel, thanks to its ethnic mix of Moroccans, Indians, Turks and Chinese. The narrow streets sloping towards the river from Plaza Tirso de Molina are full of shops selling everything from cheap clothes and leather handbags to tea and spices. Check out the traditional bars, such as Taberna Antonio Sánchez for example. Performances of the traditional light opera known as zarzuela are given outdoors in La Corrala in summer.

Lavapiés district
Law of Desire

Almodóvar’s 1986 film explored obsessive homosexual love and starred the young actor Antonio Banderas. It is Spain’s top-grossing film.