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Morning
To get to Manzanares, take bus No. 721 from Plaza de Castilla, alighting at Avenida de Madrid. There’s a supermarket near the bus stop if you want to take a picnic. Take Calle del Castillo as far as Calle de Cañada and the restored 15th-century castle, from where there are good views of the storks fishing in the reservoir. Return along Calle de Cañada to the old town square, Plaza del Generalísimo, where you’ll find several nice cafés and bars if you are ready for a coffee stop.
Cross the tree-sheltered Plaza del Raso, passing a small cemetery, and you’ll come to the 16th-century Church of Our Lady of the Snows with its elegant Renaissance portico. Walk around the church for more views of the lake. Return to Plaza del Raso and take Calle Real, crossing the River Manzanares to the ruins of the old castle (castillo viejo ). Then follow the river to the Chapel of the Holy Rock (Ermita de la Peña Sacra ), built on a huge granite slab. Every Whitsun a procession in honour of the Virgin makes its way here from the cemetery.
Cross the river and turn left to Calle del Tranco, where the El Tranco restaurant makes a pleasant lunch stop (see El Tranco).
Afternoon
Spend a leisurely afternoon enjoying the invigorating, fresh mountain air and splendid vistas of La Pedriza regional park.
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Morning
Catch the first guided tour of the morning (10:30am) at the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales . On leaving, cross Plaza San Martín to Calle de Hilera, then turn right onto Calle del Arenal. Follow this busy street to Plaza de Isabel II, the best place to admire Madrid’s opera house, the Teatro Real. Follow Calle Felipe V alongside the theatre until you come to Plaza de Oriente and the Palacio Real . The palace is closed at least once a week for official functions but, if it is open, it is worth allocating an hour to looking around.
There are plenty of places to eat in the vicinity of Plaza de Oriente, for example the café of the same name (see Café de Oriente). A plaque on the wall nearby reminds visitors that this was once the treasury house where the artist Velázquez had his studio.
Afternoon
After the frantic activity of the morning, enjoy a restful afternoon in the Casa de Campo park. If you didn’t lunch at a café, a picnic may be a good idea. You could stock up at the Oriente’s delicatessen, just round the corner at Calle Carlos III, 3 (see El Obrador del Café de Oriente). To get to Casa de Campo take the metro from Opera (on Plaza Isabel II) to Lago (line R to Principe Pío, then line 10). Here you can either enjoy a spot of peaceful sunbathing and people-watching, or take in one of the many attractions of the park.
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Morning
Begin at Plaza de Cibeles and take a peek at the palatial central hall of the Main Post Office (see Palacio de Comunicaciones). Plans to redirect traffic away from the Paseo del Prado have been frustrated, but the central boulevard still makes a pleasant walk, with plenty of shade in summer. Cross the road to Plaza de la Lealtad and the garden terrace of the Hotel Ritz – a delightful spot for coffee.
Continue past the Neo-Classical façade of the Museo del Prado and you’ll come to Plaza de Murillo and the Real Jardín Botánico. Allow at least an hour here to make the most of the verdant tranquillity.
On leaving the garden, cross the Paseo del Prado and double back to Plaza Cánovas del Castillo and Ventura Rodríguez’s splendid Neptune Fountain. The small side streets here are crammed with plenty of tempting tapas bars and restaurants. You could try La Platería for a light lunch.
Afternoon
After lunch, take the small detour into Plaza de las Cortes, to admire the impressive portico of the Congreso de los Diputados . Return to the Paseo del Prado and on your left is the Museo ThyssenBornemisza which will occupy the rest of the afternoon. Take the central boulevard to return to your starting point, Plaza de las Cibeles.
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Morning
Leave Serrano metro station, heading south and limber up with a spot of window shopping on Salamanca’s main fashion drag. Turn left into Calle Columela – try not to pay too much attention to Mallorca’s mouthwatering displays of cakes and pastries – then left again into Calle Claudio Coello, a delightful street lined with private art galleries, antique shops and boutiques. Don’t miss Capa Sculptures (No. 19) and Monasterio Antígüedades (No. 21). Look left at Calle de Goya for the entrance to the shopping mall, El Jardín de Serrano . Cross Goya, then continue along Calle de Claudio Coello to Calle de Hermosilla.
As many Spanish shops still take an extended lunch break and siesta from 2pm to 5pm, this is the perfect moment to stop for lunch. Choices abound, but leading contenders include Teatríz for more formal eating, the tapas bar at Estay or the reasonably priced pizza and pasta joint, Gino’s .
Afternoon
Give Calle de Hermosilla the once-over, then resume your walk on Calle Claudio Coello, which boasts designer names such as Angel Schlesser, Antonio Pernas and Cristina Castañer . At Calle de Ayala turn left to return to Calle de Serrano, where you can either ogle over the designer goods and dream, or blow your budget on a beautiful handbag or pair of shoes.
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Morning
Start the walk outside the Casa de Correos in Puerta del Sol , a popular meeting point for madrileños . Cross the square in the direction of the bus stops, then turn on to Calle de Alcalá. This busy street is lined with fine examples of 18th- and 19th-century architecture. Two examples on your left are the Casa de la Aduana and the Real Academia de Bellas Artes . Take time to visit this often overlooked gallery, with its small, but quality, collection of paintings. Next door is the showy façade of the Casino de Madrid.
Cross Calle de Alcalá when you reach the junction with Gran Vía, then head for coffee in the Círculo de Bellas Artes . As you make your way back to Gran Vía look up to admire the Metrópolis building, then take a stroll along Madrid’s bustling main avenue.
When you’re ready for lunch, escape the crowds by turning into Calle de Hortaleza, then Calle de la Reina. At No. 29 is La Barraca , famous for its paellas .
Afternoon
Head back to Gran Vía and continue to Plaza del Callao. Turn left into Calle de Preciados, a pedestrianized street dominated by two large department stores, FNAC and El Corte Inglés. After a leisurely browse around the shops, return to Puerta del Sol as it begins to liven up for the evening.
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Begin the morning at Plaza de la Villa with its handsome 16th- and 17th-century palaces. Take the busy Calle Mayor as far as Calle de Felipe III, then turn into Plaza Mayor . Cross this magnificent square diagonally, leaving by the ancient Calle Toledo, once the main exit south from the city. On the way look out for the Hernanz rope store (see Casa Hernanz) and other reminders that this was once an artisans’ quarter. Looming on the left is the Baroque Colegiata de San Isidro . Continue to La Latina metro.
Turn and follow Plaza de la Cebada, past the modern covered market. Turn right into Plaza del Humilladero and cross this square to the adjoining Plaza de San Andrés and its huge domed church. Straight ahead is a 16th-century palace, now the Museo San Isidro . Follow the path round the back of the church into Costanilla de San Andrés, a narrow street which opens onto the historic Plaza de la Paja, a good area for bars and restaurants. On the corner of Calle de Alfonso VI is the Colegio de San IIdefonso whose students chant the results of the Christmas National Lottery in a distinctive sing-song.
By now you’ll probably be ready for a well-earned lun-ch. Vegetarians will be tempted by El Estragón (Costanilla de San Andrés 10); another good choice is the Taberna Bilbao next door (No.8).
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Start this evening walk around 5pm when the shops re-open after the siesta . Take the metro to Chueca, emerging on Plaza de Chueca, heart of Madrid’s gay quarter. Look out for Taberna del Angel Sierra, a traditional tiled bar with zinc counter and painted ceiling (see Taberna de Angel Sierra). From here take Calle de Gravina into Calle del Almirante. These streets are the wealthy shopper’s paradise, with designer names jockeying for position on both sides. Turn onto Calle de la Libertad, then take a right at Calle de Augusto Figueroa, famous for shoes sold at knock-down prices.
Cross Calle de Hortaleza and continue to Calle de Fuencarral. Turn right here, heading for the Museo Municipal and spend a few minutes browsing in the excellent bookshop. A little further on turn left into Calle Manuela Malasaña.
Trendy Malasaña is full of enticing restaurants and tapas bars so make a mental note of anywhere that takes your fancy for later. Turn left into Calle de San Andrés, passing the Taberna del Foro , then cross Plaza del Dos de Mayo. If you’ve worked up a thirst, the bistro-bar El 2De at No. 25 will fit the bill. Continue along Calle de San Andrés to Calle de San Vicente Ferrer. Return for dinner at your chosen tapas bar, then head for home on Calle de San Vicente Ferrer for the metro at Tribunal, or head off for a night on the tiles.
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The main transport hub, has a surprising tropical forest inside it complete with terrapins. Have a relaxing drink at the cafe for a ringside seat. Like the rest of Madrid it was very reasonably priced.
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