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Sherry is the speciality of this small, lively bar. Simple tapas dishes.

This roadside hotel-restaurant serves Castilian meat dishes in an attractive dining room, the centrepiece of which is a 16th-century retablo. Live music on Saturday nights.

This famous restaurant has hardly changed in more than 150 years. Some customers never get further than the tapas counter downstairs (see Lhardy).

The framed picture of Elvis greets you at this friendly bar, decorated in minimalist style. Comes alive after dark. Games room

This Castilian restaurant, with traditional wood-fired oven, is as good a place as any to savour roast lamb, suckling pig or kid.

The walls of Los Gabrieles are decorated with superb azulejo tiles, dating from the late 19th century when the bar was a brothel and gypsy dancers performed Flamenco here. To appreciate the decor, arrive early; around 11pm the lights are dimmed and Los Gabrieles is transformed into a music bar serving copas and cañas (spirits and beer) to people in the mood to party. Flamenco shows Tuesday nights (see Los Gabrieles).

A 19th-century bar with tile-lined walls, popular with locals and visitors alike (see Los Gabrieles).

Bring your camera when you visit this wonderfully over-the-top bar, often overlooked by tourists. Every inch of space is crammed with bric-à-brac – signed basketball shirts, old telephones, beer barrels, bull’s heads, you name it. Steer your way to the bar for a glass of beer and a plate of shrimps. While you’re about it, take a look at the tempting array of canapés, filled rolls and tapas .

This restaurant was a favourite of film director Pedro Almodóvar, and appears in his film All about my Mother . The terrace has views of the Calatravas church on Gran Vía, but you pay for the privilege. Mediterranean cooking.