DK Travel : Madrid : Chueca and Malasaña

Two of Madrid’s most lively barrios lie just off the Gran Vía. Chueca was originally home to the city’s blacksmiths and tile-makers. Run-down for many years, it has enjoyed a renaissance after being adopted by Madrid’s gay community – the area puts on its glad rags every summer for the Gay Pride celebrations. The 19th-century buildings around Plaza de Chueca have been given a new lease of life as trendy bars and restaurants. Neighbouring Malasaña was the focus of resistance against the French in 1808. Like Chueca, it became rather seedy, but is now a mainstay of Madrid nightlife.

Page
1
2
3
4
5
6

Alcoba

Small outlet selling a lovely range of glitzy evening wear, with sequinned bags, scarves and other accessories. Also candles, picture frames and costume jewellery.
Almirante 23

If it’s collectable, they collect it – postcards, perfume containers, tobacco tins, cameras, sunglasses, cinema programmes, menus, cigarette cards, the lot. Difficult to drag yourself away.
An Evening Shop and Bar Crawl

Start this evening walk around 5pm when the shops re-open after the siesta . Take the metro to Chueca, emerging on Plaza de Chueca, heart of Madrid’s gay quarter. Look out for Taberna del Angel Sierra, a traditional tiled bar with zinc counter and painted ceiling (see Taberna de Angel Sierra). From here take Calle de Gravina into Calle del Almirante. These streets are the wealthy shopper’s paradise, with designer names jockeying for position on both sides. Turn onto Calle de la Libertad, then take a right at Calle de Augusto Figueroa, famous for shoes sold at knock-down prices.
Cross Calle de Hortaleza and continue to Calle de Fuencarral. Turn right here, heading for the Museo Municipal and spend a few minutes browsing in the excellent bookshop. A little further on turn left into Calle Manuela Malasaña.
Trendy Malasaña is full of enticing restaurants and tapas bars so make a mental note of anywhere that takes your fancy for later. Turn left into Calle de San Andrés, passing the Taberna del Foro , then cross Plaza del Dos de Mayo. If you’ve worked up a thirst, the bistro-bar El 2De at No. 25 will fit the bill. Continue along Calle de San Andrés to Calle de San Vicente Ferrer. Return for dinner at your chosen tapas bar, then head for home on Calle de San Vicente Ferrer for the metro at Tribunal, or head off for a night on the tiles.
Bocaíto

Classic tapas . The prawn and garlic tostadas are wonderful (see El Bocaíto).
Bodegas el Maño

This old-fashioned wine cellar really looks the part, with fluted columns and painted barrels. Draught vermouth, beers and wines. A good range of tapas – the stuffed squid goes down a treat.
Café Comercial

Founded in 1887, and for that reason alone is a “must see”. Tatty, fin-de-siècle decor. Internet café upstairs.
Café Isadora

Small stylish bar, decorated with posters of the legendary dancer Isadora Duncan. Jazz plays in the background while you chat over champagne cocktails and unusual liqueur coffees.
Café Manuela

More like a club for young people who drop in to chat, read the paper or play board games. Draught beer, cocktails and snacks.
Café Oliver

Trendy bar-restaurant with modern interior. Serves Mediterranean cuisine and brunch on Sundays.
Calle de Fuencarral

This narrow street, permanently clogged with traffic, is worth negotiating for its original and offbeat shops. High street fashions are represented by outlets such as Mango (No. 9) but for something more outré , check out the party fashions at No. 47, or the seductive underwear at Chocolate (No. 20). La Reserva (No. 64) sells silver jewellery handmade by Navajo Indians, as well as Mexican belts and snakeskin wallets. Café Pozo (No. 53) offers its own blends of coffee and tea, while Retoque (No. 49), founded in 1920, goes in for picture frames and modern art posters.

Jump to top

Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €25
- €25-€35
- €35-€55
- €55-€70
- €over €70