The Comunidad de Madrid is a vast region covering 8,000 sq km (3,000 sq miles), with a population now exceeding five million. To the north of the capital is the Sierra de Guadarrama, a majestic mountain range, stretching more than 100 km (60 miles) east–west, and visitors to El Escorial, Valle de los Caídos, or Manzanaresel-Real will enjoy superb views as well as fresh mountain air. An excursion to the university town of Alcalá de Henares can easily be combined with Chinchón. Alternatively you could couple the latter with Aranjuez, an oasis of gardens and orchards in an otherwise parched landscape.
For spectacular views of the Sierra, take the funicular from the Valle de los Caídos basílica to the base of the cross.-
Morning
To get to Manzanares, take bus No. 721 from Plaza de Castilla, alighting at Avenida de Madrid. There’s a supermarket near the bus stop if you want to take a picnic. Take Calle del Castillo as far as Calle de Cañada and the restored 15th-century castle, from where there are good views of the storks fishing in the reservoir. Return along Calle de Cañada to the old town square, Plaza del Generalísimo, where you’ll find several nice cafés and bars if you are ready for a coffee stop.
Cross the tree-sheltered Plaza del Raso, passing a small cemetery, and you’ll come to the 16th-century Church of Our Lady of the Snows with its elegant Renaissance portico. Walk around the church for more views of the lake. Return to Plaza del Raso and take Calle Real, crossing the River Manzanares to the ruins of the old castle (castillo viejo ). Then follow the river to the Chapel of the Holy Rock (Ermita de la Peña Sacra ), built on a huge granite slab. Every Whitsun a procession in honour of the Virgin makes its way here from the cemetery.
Cross the river and turn left to Calle del Tranco, where the El Tranco restaurant makes a pleasant lunch stop (see El Tranco).
Afternoon
Spend a leisurely afternoon enjoying the invigorating, fresh mountain air and splendid vistas of La Pedriza regional park.
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This historic town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its splendid Renaissance and Baroque architecture. It was the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote , and of the ill-fated Queen of England, Catherine of Aragon. The town’s importance dates from the late 15th century when the head of the Spanish church, Cardinal Cisneros, founded a university here. A tour of the buildings, including the main hall with its marvellous mudéjar ceiling, is a must, Also worth seeing is Teatro Cervantes, the oldest public theatre in Europe, founded in the 17th century and restored in the 1990s.
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This gem of a town, awarded the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, is a must see. The most obvious attraction is the Palacio Real, summer residence of Spain’s Bourbon rulers and sumptuously decorated in the French style. No expense was spared either on the extravagant folly known as the Casa del Labrador, in the grounds near the River Tagus. The town has preserved some of its corralas – balconied wooden dwellings, built around a courtyard – and its bullring (Plaza de Toros). If you don’t want to shell out on a meal in one of the town’s excellent restaurants, the Mercado de Abastos is a good source for picnic provisions. Aranjuez’s strawberries, sold from roadside stalls, make the perfect dessert. The town is also famous for its artichokes.
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This restaurant in a stone farmhouse is worth seeking out. Chef Felipe del Olmo is known for his stylish cooking – try the grilled hake in a delicious squid sauce. Large terrace in summer.
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This café-restaurant was once the royal coach-house. Castilian fare with bacalao (cod) the house speciality.
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The cuisine is based on home-grown produce including the local artichoke.
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This homely restaurant with bull-fighting decor has the feel of an old tavern. Meat and fresh fish are the mainstays.
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Life in this attractive little town revolves around the Plaza Mayor, the galleried main square, dating from the 16th century. Originally a cattle market, the square is the focus of a Holy Week procession on Good Friday, a passion play on Easter Saturday and bullfights in July and August. While you’re here, try the local speciality, anís , a liquorice-flavoured liqueur (ask for “Chinchón”). Also worth seeing is the Iglesia de la Asunción, with a painting of the Assumption of the Virgin by Goya, whose brother was the local priest.
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In the grounds of the Casa del Labrador. The house speciality is faisán a la cazadora (roast partridge).
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Considered the best restaurant in town. If you’re here on Wednesdays, all the better because chef Manuel Miguez’s cocido madrileño (see Cocido Madrileño) is renowned. Summer terrace.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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