El Rastro
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This colourful street market in one of the city’s oldest working-class neigh-bourhoods has been going for well over 100 years. The word rastro means “trail” and refers to the animal innards that were dragged through the streets in the days when this was the site of the main abattoir. The artist Francisco de Goya immortalized the street types here in paintings such as Blind Man with Guitar, while earlier it had been the backdrop for comic satires by playwrights of the Golden Age. Among the most exotic inhabitants were the amazonas, a team of horsewomen who performed at royal receptions in the 16th century and are remembered in Calle Amazonas. The Rastro is best known for its flea market, the most famous in Spain, but there are also dozens of stalls selling new clothes, furniture and antiques.
For more markets in Madrid (see Top 10 Markets)
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1. Calle Ribera de Curtidores
The Rastro’s main street is named after the curtidores (tanners) who once plied their trade here. You can still pick up a leather jacket on one of the dozens of stalls, as well as T-shirts, belts, handbags and hats.
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2. Statue of Eloy Gonzalo
At the siege of Cascorro in Cuba (1898) Eloy Gonzalo volunteered to start a blaze in the enemy camp and was fatally wounded. Look closely at the statue and you’ll see the petrol can.
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3. Plaza del General Vara de Rey
3. Plaza del General Vara de ReySecond-hand clothes, candelabras, books and old furniture are on offer on this bustling square.
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4. Calle Carlos Arniches
4. Calle Carlos ArnichesDropping away from the square, this street marks the beginning of the flea market proper. Among the bric-à-brac are watches, cameras, rugs, hats, oil lamps and record players. The lock vendor and his dog are a regular fixture.
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5. Calle Mira el Sol
The place to head to if you’re after something electrical, including spare parts, mobile phones and car radios of doubtful provenance. The corner with Ribera de Curtidores is the favourite pitch of the organillera (lady organ-grinder), one of the market’s more colourful characters.
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6. Plaza Campillo Mundo Nuevo
6. Plaza Campillo Mundo NuevoAdult collectors and children are the main customers, browsing the stacks of old comics and magazines in the vicinity of this square . You’ll also find CDs, vinyl records, toys, and oddities such as binoculars and magnifying glasses.
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7. Calle de Gasómetro
Car owners may find what they’re looking for here: there’s usually a good selection of anti-theft locks, windscreen wipers, brake lights and tools. There’s also a brisk trade in used computer parts and bicycle accessories.
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8. Off Ribera de Curtidores
Art equipment and picture frames are the speciality of Calle San Cayetano. Stalls near the Army & Navy store on Calle Carnero sell sports gear. Pet owners head for Calle Fray Ceferino González for the miscellany of dog collars, fishing nets and bird cages.
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9. Eating in El Rastro
9. Eating in El RastroThere are many bars and cafés in the area. Malacatín at Calle Ruda 5 rustles up the delicious local stew cocido madrileño (see Cocido Madrileño).
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10. Puerta de Toledo
10. Puerta de ToledoThis triumphal arch was unveiled in 1827 and dedicated to Fernando VII. Ironically it had first been proposed during the French occupation to extol the values of liberty and democracy.
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