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This magnificent statue by two Italian artists, Pietro Tacca and Giambologna, was moved here in the 19th century. Presented to Felipe III in 1616 by the Florentine ruler Cosimo de’ Medici, it was originally in the Casa de Campo.

This house was the headquarters of the bakers’ guild, which had enormous power controlling the price of grain. The portal survives from the original building which burned down in 1672.

In the 1980s it was decided that the façade murals were past saving and a competition was held for a new design. The winner, Carlos Franco, painted allegories of the zodiac signs in 1992.

The Casa de la Carnicería was originally the meat market. Outside was a gallows where criminals were executed. Next door to the building is the main tourist office.

“Cutlers” Arch is a reminder of the sword-makers and knife-grinders who once plied their trades here. Today the street is famous for mesones (taverns) such as Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas, named after a 19th-century bandit said to have hidden in its cellars.

When the houses were built on this street adjacent to Plaza Mayor, huge quantities of earth were removed from the foundations of the square. To prevent its collapse, frontages on the Cava were designed as sloping buttresses.

Buying and selling has always been the life blood of Plaza Mayor. At El Arco de los Cuchilleros (No. 9) all the items on sale have been made by local artisans, continuing a centuries-old tradition.

Bars and restaurants put out tables in the summer months, and relaxing over a drink is the best way to appreciate the square. Look out for the speciality bocadillo de calamares (bread roll filled with squid).

The modern lamp-posts around the statue of Felipe III are engraved with scenes depicting life on the square in days gone by. They include a masquerade ball, an interrogation by members of the Inquisition and a bullfight.

Something of a tradition, this market takes place every Sunday morning from around 10am to 2pm and attracts amateur and expert collectors from all over Spain. Otherwise enthusiasts should head for the specialist shops on Calle Felipe III, Calle Mayor and outside the Arco de Toledo.