Central Madrid began to take on its present appearance in the mid-19th century with the modernization of Puerta del Sol. This busy intersection was the first to have electric street lighting, trams and, in 1919, Madrid’s first underground station. Meanwhile Calle de Alcalá was becoming the focal point of a new financial district as banks, insurance offices and other businesses set up their headquarters in showy new premises. Building work on the Gran Vía began in 1910 but was only completed in the 1940s with the remodelling of Plaza de España. To make way for this sweeping Parisian-style boulevard, 1,315 m (1,440 yds) long and designed with automobile traffic in mind, more than 300 buildings were demolished and 14 streets disappeared altogether. The new avenue reflected the American architectural tastes of the jazz age, with skyscrapers, cinemas, glitzy cocktail bars, luxury hotels, theatres and restaurants.
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Raid this store near Puerta del Sol for glitzy costume jewellery and equally showy accessories – perfect for a night on the town.
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Morning
Start the walk outside the Casa de Correos in Puerta del Sol , a popular meeting point for madrileños . Cross the square in the direction of the bus stops, then turn on to Calle de Alcalá. This busy street is lined with fine examples of 18th- and 19th-century architecture. Two examples on your left are the Casa de la Aduana and the Real Academia de Bellas Artes . Take time to visit this often overlooked gallery, with its small, but quality, collection of paintings. Next door is the showy façade of the Casino de Madrid.
Cross Calle de Alcalá when you reach the junction with Gran Vía, then head for coffee in the Círculo de Bellas Artes . As you make your way back to Gran Vía look up to admire the Metrópolis building, then take a stroll along Madrid’s bustling main avenue.
When you’re ready for lunch, escape the crowds by turning into Calle de Hortaleza, then Calle de la Reina. At No. 29 is La Barraca , famous for its paellas .
Afternoon
Head back to Gran Vía and continue to Plaza del Callao. Turn left into Calle de Preciados, a pedestrianized street dominated by two large department stores, FNAC and El Corte Inglés. After a leisurely browse around the shops, return to Puerta del Sol as it begins to liven up for the evening.
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Unpretentious restaurant serving vegetarian dishes. House speciality is spinach and mushroom tart (tarta de setas y espinacas ).
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This well-known vegetarian restaurant features a nettle purée among other imaginative dishes. Also organic wines and herbal teas. No smoking.
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The Bank of Spain was founded in 1856 and 20 years later acquired the exclusive right to issue bank notes in its name. The most impressive part of these headquarters is the corner section, decorated with typical Neo-Baroque ornamentation – caryatids and medallions, a marble clock and the distinctive golden globe. Spain’s gold reserves are locked away in the vaults beneath Plaza de Cibeles. Apart from gold, the bank’s main treasure is its art collection, with works ranging from Goya to Tàpies. It can only be viewed by written application to the bank.
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The name “coffee and tea” says it all. Branch of a cafeteria chain in the heart of cinema land (see Cinemas and Entertainment).
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Located in the Art Deco Carrión building, this cinema’s greatest moment occurred early in the Civil War when Eisenstein’s stirring movie Kronstadt was shown to an audience including the President of the Republic and leading military figures. Films are screened in Spanish. Two screens.
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Four floors of books on every subject under the sun. Some English books. Good travel section, especially for books on Spain.
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It’s difficult to tear yourself away from this emporium specializing in mantones (Spanish shawls) and mantillas , the silk headresses worn by women in Goya’s paintings (see Casa Jiménez).
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A Madrid institution, it was here that Pablo Iglesias founded the Spanish Socialist party in 1879. Of the tapas on offer try the house speciality, soldaditos de Pavía (fried cod).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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FeriarteMadrid's annual art fair - Feriarte - has been running for over 30 years. The enticing selection of objets d'art, furniture and jewellery at the IFEMA should tempt everyone from antique lovers to... Read more
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