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Begin the morning at Plaza de la Villa with its handsome 16th- and 17th-century palaces. Take the busy Calle Mayor as far as Calle de Felipe III, then turn into Plaza Mayor . Cross this magnificent square diagonally, leaving by the ancient Calle Toledo, once the main exit south from the city. On the way look out for the Hernanz rope store (see Casa Hernanz) and other reminders that this was once an artisans’ quarter. Looming on the left is the Baroque Colegiata de San Isidro . Continue to La Latina metro.

Turn and follow Plaza de la Cebada, past the modern covered market. Turn right into Plaza del Humilladero and cross this square to the adjoining Plaza de San Andrés and its huge domed church. Straight ahead is a 16th-century palace, now the Museo San Isidro . Follow the path round the back of the church into Costanilla de San Andrés, a narrow street which opens onto the historic Plaza de la Paja, a good area for bars and restaurants. On the corner of Calle de Alfonso VI is the Colegio de San IIdefonso whose students chant the results of the Christmas National Lottery in a distinctive sing-song.

By now you’ll probably be ready for a well-earned lun-ch. Vegetarians will be tempted by El Estragón (Costanilla de San Andrés 10); another good choice is the Taberna Bilbao next door (No.8).

Atmospheric tapas bar – from 11pm at weekends you can only eat standing at the bar (see Alhambra).

The glass-roofed terrace is the main attraction of this restaurant specializing in rice-based dishes.

Shades of the Orient in this shop selling hookah pipes, copper kettles, carved wooden boxes, embroidered slippers, cushions, and much more.

A classic asador where meat and fish dishes are grilled over charcoal (see Asador Frontón).

One of Madrid’s great cultural institutions, the Ateneo was founded in 1835 to promote the arts and sciences. The building contains a library of half a million volumes.

Health food shop with a good selection of natural products, mainly food (including vacuum-packed 100 per cent vegeburgers) and cosmetics.

American writer Ernest Hemingway was a fan of this restaurant. His favourite dish, roast suckling pig, is still a house speciality (see Botín).

Sophisticated jazz lovers home in on this Art-Deco café at the top of Huertas. There’s a small admission charge, depending on the artists (see Café Central).

The name refers to the orchards that flourished here in the 17th century. Today the street is better known for its nightlife.