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Begin the morning at Plaza de la Villa with its handsome 16th- and 17th-century palaces. Take the busy Calle Mayor as far as Calle de Felipe III, then turn into Plaza Mayor . Cross this magnificent square diagonally, leaving by the ancient Calle Toledo, once the main exit south from the city. On the way look out for the Hernanz rope store (see Casa Hernanz) and other reminders that this was once an artisans’ quarter. Looming on the left is the Baroque Colegiata de San Isidro . Continue to La Latina metro.
Turn and follow Plaza de la Cebada, past the modern covered market. Turn right into Plaza del Humilladero and cross this square to the adjoining Plaza de San Andrés and its huge domed church. Straight ahead is a 16th-century palace, now the Museo San Isidro . Follow the path round the back of the church into Costanilla de San Andrés, a narrow street which opens onto the historic Plaza de la Paja, a good area for bars and restaurants. On the corner of Calle de Alfonso VI is the Colegio de San IIdefonso whose students chant the results of the Christmas National Lottery in a distinctive sing-song.
By now you’ll probably be ready for a well-earned lun-ch. Vegetarians will be tempted by El Estragón (Costanilla de San Andrés 10); another good choice is the Taberna Bilbao next door (No.8).
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