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No visa is required for citizens of EU countries, the USA, Canada or Australia who are planning to stay for less than 90 days. Remember, however, that passports need to be valid for three months beyond the end of your stay. Citizens of other countries should consult their Spanish embassy or consulate for information before travelling.

Generally speaking, in Madrid you get what you pay for. In summer the essentials are air-conditioning and double-glazed windows. The streets of the Old Town, tend to be very noisy throughout the night, so ask for a room at the back of the hotel. If space is important, ask about the size of the room; some can be very cramped. As Madrid has an excellent public transport system, it’s worth considering a hotel away from the centre if you value peace and quiet. Also check whether the hotel offers reduced weekend rates.

Madrid’s best restaurants are in great demand, so it’s important to book in advance of your trip. In any case it’s a good idea to make a telephone booking 24 hours ahead, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings and for Sunday lunch.

Don’t plan to see too much on a short stay, especially in summer when the afternoon heat makes sightseeing hard going. One of the great things about Madrid is its easy-going atmosphere – to get the most out of the city, do as the locals do and take long lunches and lots of coffee breaks.

The best months to visit Madrid are May and September, when there’s plenty of sunshine but the heat isn’t too oppressive. Temperatures tend to be over 30° C (85° F) throughout July and August and the air doesn’t cool down much until after midnight. November through March can be quite cold. Even then, however, the sun usually shines.

If you’re visiting Madrid during winter, take warm jumpers, a raincoat and umbrella, as the weather can be unpredictable. In the summer remember to pack plenty of sun block, a head-covering and sunglasses. Madrileños’ dress code is smart but casual. Only the most formal restaurants require jacket and tie.

The local power supply is 220 volts AC. Wall sockets have twopin plugs. British shavers and hairdryers require an adaptor. If you’re using an American appliance you’ll need a transformer.

Travel with a small quantity of euros to pay for your first metro tickets or taxis. Cash dispensers (ATMs) are everywhere in Madrid and display symbols of which bank cards they accept. All major credit cards (Visa, MasterCard and American Express) are accepted.

For EU citizens there are no limits on goods that can be taken into or out of Spain, provided they are for your personal use. Outside the EU, you may import the following allowances duty-free: 200 cigarettes or equivalent in tobacco; 4 litres of wine, or 2 litres of wine plus 1 litre of spirits; 60ml of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette; €350 worth of other items.

British Airways and Iberia are the main carriers to Madrid from London (Heathrow and Gatwick) and Manchester; BA also flies from Birmingham. The best cut-price option is EasyJet, with regular flights from Liverpool and Luton. Flights from the UK take around two hours.

Iberia flies direct to Madrid from New York, Miami and Chicago. Delta Air Lines also fly from the East Coast. Air Europa offers less frequent but cheaper flights from New York. Flights from New York take around seven hours.

All the major European airlines fly to Madrid, including KLM, Air France, Lufthansa and Alitalia.

Madrid’s airport is 16 km (10 miles) east of the city. There are three terminals: Terminal 1 for international flights, Terminal 2 for national and some Iberia flights within Europe, Terminal 3 for regional flights and the Madrid– Barcelona shuttle. In 2006 a new terminal area, accessible by monorail, opened in the north of the airport. Facilities include banks, bureaux de change, ATMs, hotel and rail reservation service, pharmacies, tourist information, left-luggage, post office, shops, cafés, restaurant and bars, and car hire.

The 115 airport bus de- parts every 9–12 minutes and goes to the Avenida de America coach station (journey time 30–40 minutes). Taxis into the city (road A-2) take at least 30 minutes, depending on traffic. The Barajas metro link (line 8) is the fastest route, taking only 12 minutes to Nuevos Ministerios.

You can travel directly to Madrid from France or Portugal. The national Spanish rail operator is RENFE. Madrid’s two main railway stations are Estación de Chamartín in the north and Estación de Atocha in the south. Both are connected via the metro. Tickets can be obtained from stations, from the RENFE office or from a travel agent.

Chamartín serves trains from France, Catalonia and northern Spain. Facilities include money exchange, cafés, car hire, post office, tourist information, hotel reservation, and shopping centre.

Atocha (see Estación de Atocha) serves trains from southern Spain and Portugal. The AVE terminal handles the high-speed Madrid–Seville service. From 2005 it will also handle the Madrid– Lleida service to Barcelona. The station has exchange facilities and a large shopping centre.

The main coach station is Estación Sur de Autobuses. Travellers from France, Portugal and Spain’s major cities arrive here.

The most economical way of getting around the city is to buy a Metrobus ticket, valid for 10 journeys. You must stamp your ticket at the beginning of each journey. They are available from metro stations, estancos (tobacconists) and some newspaper kiosks. Single tickets for the metro are sold in the station.

Buses run from 6am until 11:30pm. Bus route maps can be obtained from tourist offices (see Sources of Information). Night buses known as buhos (owls) depart from Plaza de Cibeles every 20 minutes from midnight to 6am. The price is the same as a day ticket and Metrobus tickets are valid.

Madrid has a comprehensive metro system, with trains running every 3–5 minutes. Each of the 11 lines is colour-coded. The only other thing you need to know is the direction you’re travelling in and the name of the end station. Services run from 6am to 1:30am.

City taxis are white with a diagonal red stripe and green light on the roof. They may be hailed on the street or hired from one of the many ranks. Make sure that the meter is not already running when you get in. There are extra charges for airport pick-up, luggage, and on Sundays, public holidays and at night.

Use one of the official underground car parks, for example at Plaza Santa Ana, Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Oriente, or you can park on the street in designated areas using the pay-and-display parking system – green lines indicate a limit of one hour, blue lines no more than two hours. Illegally parked cars may be impounded and should be recovered as soon as possible as the fines rise every hour.

Anyone over the age of 21 can hire a car on presentation of a passport and valid driving licence (held for at least one year). You will also need an international insurance policy. All major companies are represented in Madrid and cars can be hired from the airport, main railway stations and large hotels.

Traffic drives on the right. Seat belts are compulsory for front-seat passengers. It’s illegal to drive while wearing headphones or using a hand-held mobile phone. Drivers must carry two red hazard triangles, spare bulbs and a spare wheel. The speed limit on motorways is 120 kmph (75 mph), on main roads 90 kmph (55 mph), and 50 kmph (30mph) within towns. Driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs is a serious offence incurring on the spot fines.

The main tour bus company, Madrid Vision, offers several routes around the city including Historic Madrid and Modern Madrid. Buses depart daily from Gran Vía 32 and Sol every 10 to 25 minutes from 9:30am to midnight in summer and 10am to 7pm in winter. You can get on or off at any stop along the route. Cassettes with English commentary are provided.

Driving a motorcycle or moped is one way of avoiding traffic congestion and parking problems. Crash helmets must be worn, though many locals flout this law. Cycling in Madrid is dangerous.

An up-to-date map is an essential tool for getting around the city. One of the most detailed is Madrid Ciudad , in fold-up format with a street index, available in book-shops and at newspaper kiosks. Easier to use but harder to read are the maps issued free by El Corte Inglés. The tourist offices and transport agencies have free bus and metro maps.

The main city tourist office is in Plaza Mayor. It is well-stocked with maps, brochures and other information. The staff will help with accommodation but not book it for you.

This office covers the Greater Madrid area (Comunidad de Madrid ) including the city itself. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable.

There are smaller tourist offices at Atocha and Chamartín railway stations and Mercado Puerta de Toledo. Barajas airport (see Barajas International Airport) has a useful information centre near the metro entrance. In addition there are yellow information stands at strategic points in the various terminals.

From July to September the Plaza Mayor Tourist Office organizes a number of walking tours in English, for example Hapsburg Madrid, covering the Royal Palace, major churches and monasteries of the Old Town, and Legends of Old Madrid, an informative and entertaining introduction to the city.

The monthly bi-lingual brochure, En Madrid What’s On is the best up-to-date guide for listings information and events and has a metro map at the back. Available free from tourist offices. InMadrid , also published monthly in English, is a lively entertainment guide aimed at young people with up-to-the-minute listings on concerts and venues, as well as background articles on the Madrid cultural scene. Available free from tourist offices, the Casa del Libro bookshop (Gran Vía 29), most Irish bars and some cafés in the centre. Visitors arriving by plane should look out for the glossy leaflet, Madrid Barajas , which has useful tips and addresses, a map and background articles. It is bi-lingual, monthly and free.

Two official sites are the City Tourist Office (www.munimadrid.es) and the Regional Tourist Office (www.madrid.org/turismo). Both have good information in English and Spanish. Also try the official site for the whole of Spain (www.spain.info). Many major tourist attractions have their own sites.

If you can read Spanish, most daily papers such as El País and El Mundo have a supplement on Madrid including listings.

Foreign newspapers and some magazines such as Time are available on the day of publication from kiosks. The kiosk at the western end of Puerta del Sol is open 24 hours.

Central Madrid is surprisingly compact and you can save money by walking between sights rather than taking the bus or metro. This is also a pleasant way to get to know the city.

If you’re stopping for a coffee or snack, it’s cheaper to stand at the bar than sit down. To save on lunch, order the menú del día or the combinado – much cheaper than à la carte . Tapas is another way to eat cheaply (see Tapas Bars). Some bars serve olives, crisps and nuts with drinks at no extra charge. Madrid is well blessed with parks and green spaces, free to the public. Take a picnic to save buying a meal in a café or restaurant.

While illegal, strictly speaking, busking is as common in Madrid as in other European cities and is a good source of free entertainment. Buskers perform in metro stations, in Retiro Park and on the street wherever they get the chance.

State museums, such as the Reina Sofía, are free on Saturday afternoons after 2:30pm and on Sundays (the Prado is free only on Sundays). In addition, national monuments managed by the Patrimonio Nacional (including the Palacio Real) are free for EU nationals on Wednesdays.

Many museums and galleries offer free entry to the over 65s. Students with an ISIC (International Student Identity Card) can get reductions in many museums. The under-18s can also gain free or reduced entry to museums, art galleries and other attractions. The Paseo del Arte combined ticket is the most economical way of visiting the three main art museums.

You can find acceptable accommodation in central Madrid for under €40 a night, or less if you aren’t too fussy about quality. There’s currently only one camp site in Madrid itself, although many more in the Greater Madrid area. While facilities at the Madrid site are adequate, it’s near the airport and noisy. Another option is youth hostelling. The best is Hostal Santa Cruz de Marcenado, a 20-minute walk from metro Argüelles. Book ahead.

While some hotels offer good-value breakfasts, many, especially at the cheaper end of the market, do not. You can save money by paying only for accommodation and taking breakfast in a local café. If you like a square meal to set you up at the beginning of the day, many cafés also offer reasonably priced English- or American-style breakfasts.

This card gives you free entry to several museums as well as unlimited travel on the Madrid Visión tour bus and other discounts. 1-and 3-day cards are sold at tourist offices, on Madrid Visión buses or over the internet.

While opening times are restricted, most churches in Madrid are free to visit, or, in the case of cultural sites, cheap. They’re also worth checking out for free or inexpensive concerts, especially around Christmas, Holy Week (Semana Santa ) and during the major summer and autumn cultural festivals (see Religious and Cultural Fiestas).

Traffic jams, problems with parking and risk-taking motorists make driving in central Madrid a frustrating and stressful experience, best avoided. On the other hand, hiring a car is a convenient way to explore the towns of Greater Madrid.

Madrid is a reasonably safe city providing you take the usual precautions like avoiding poorly lit backstreets after dark. Pickpockets are active on the metro and around Sol, Rastro and Lavapiés. Carry valuables in a belt pouch or similar, not in a pocket. Do not wear bags over one shoulder. Never leave bags in your car, even the boot – your insurance won’t provide cover. Thieves recognize the registration plates of hire cars and target them.

Before entering the station, check the map. Keep an eye on the colour-coded line you want and the name of the end station for the direction in which you are travelling. The blue route signs are a good way of checking you’re on track once you’re in the station. Most trains also have recorded announcements informing passengers of the next station and connections.

Steer clear of the red light district, north of Gran Vía, even in the daytime, especially Calle de Valverde and Calle del Barco, and also Calle de la Montera to the south of Gran Vía. Single women should be particularly careful. If you do have to pass through, look as if you know where you’re going and keep an eye on your valuables.

Parks are safe during the daytime, but all should be avoided after dark. Especially dangerous at night is Casa de Campo, a notorious area for prostitution and drug dealing.

The month of August is deadly quiet as most Madrileños take their annual summer holidays at this time. While most tourist sights remain open to the public, many bars and restaurants are closed. Also bear in mind that many shops are closed on public holidays.

When eating out in restaurants and cafés, check your bill to see if a service charge has been included. If not, you should leave small change to the value of around 5 per cent of the bill. Taxi drivers will also expect a tip of around 10 per cent for longer journeys.

If you’re planning on visiting the most popular sights, such as the Prado and the Palacio Real, arrive 15 or 20 minutes before the official opening time. The small inconvenience may well save you time in the long run as queues lengthen quickly. Arriving early is also the best way to avoid large, guide-led groups. Spanish queues at bus-stops and other places sometimes appear haphazard, but you will soon discover everyone knows his or her place.

Remember to frank your metro or bus ticket in the machine as you start your journey and keep it handy in case an inspector asks to see it. Anyone without a validated ticket will have to pay an on-the-spot fine. Although you’ll see many locals light up on metro escalators, it’s illegal to smoke anywhere on the system and on buses. Again, offenders are subject to fines.

Madrileños tend to eat frequently, but on a small scale. The main meal is lunch (la comida ), usually taken around 2pm, and restaurants are particularly busy at this time. Breakfast is a light affair, though reinforced with a mid-morning snack. Dinner is eaten around 10pm or later with another snack (la merienda ) filling the gap.

Originally a covering to keep the flies off a glass of wine, tapas (from the Spanish for “lid”) is now a national institution. Relatively few of these snacks are free nowadays, although you may strike lucky. You may see the word pincho or canapé alternating with tapas . Raciones are double portions of the same, usually large enough for sharing.

Most restaurants, cafés, even bars offer this set-price three-course option, usually at lunch. The price normally includes bread, wine or beer (or a non-alcoholic drink). Standards vary, but generally speaking you get what you pay for. The choice of first courses typically includes soup or paella , while the main meal consists of a fish or meat dish. Coffee is sometimes offered instead of dessert.

If you’re not feeling hungry enough for a full three-course lunch, the plato combinado will probably suffice. This is a one-course meal, with a little extra, for example a drink, salad or dessert.

Nowadays the distinction between the two is largely artificial, though as a rule of thumb, a taberna will have a bar-counter and will offer cheaper meals, served in a more informal atmosphere. While the word taberna suggests an inn or hostelry, more and more modern restaurants are usurping the term.

Before the Civil War there were dozens of cafés around Sol and Gran Vía known as tertulias – unofficial discussion clubs where leisurely talk was more important than the drink. Very few have survived – exceptions include the Gijón (see Café Gijón) and the Comercial.

Madrileños are notoriously sweet-toothed and cakes and pastries on sale here will certainly fill a hole if you don’t have the time or appetite for a full sit-down meal. Some pastelerías also sell sandwiches, but only a few have seating areas.

Waiter service is usually efficient until it comes to getting the bill. If you’re in a hurry, either ask for the bill (la cuenta ) with the last course or get the waiter’s attention by calling “perdone, la cuenta” (“excuse me, the bill”). Value Added Tax (IVA) at seven per cent is automatically added to bills, but not a service charge. A tip of up to five per cent is expected.

There are numerous words for bar – bodega , cervecería ,tasca ,bar de copas or just plain bar. Almost all serve food, usually tapas or other snacks. You pay a little more if you are served at table rather than drink at the counter. Bills are usually paid on leaving the bar, rather than after each round, though in late-night bars it’s pay-as-you-buy. Even midweek it’s possible to get a drink up to 1am in most places, and until 4am at weekends. Madrileños still on the town after that time often round off the evening with chocolate con churros – hot chocolate and doughnuts.

Most shops open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 2pm and 5pm to 8:30pm. Most shops open on the first Sunday of the month, but few open on other Sundays and holidays. Opening hours for department stores and chains are Monday to Saturday 10am to 9pm.

Some of the top Spanish and international designers are represented in shopping malls, where you will also find cinemas, restaurants and large supermarkets. The most convenient for tourists are (see Galería ABC Serrano) and (see El Jardín de Serrano).

There are a number of very useful chains in Madrid with extended opening hours. The most important is VIPS, which has branches all over the city. Most have cafeterias and sell a wide range of goods, including newspapers, drinks, batteries and other items (see VIPS).

Non-EU citizens can ask for a refund of Value-Added Tax (IVA) on purchases in excess of €90.15. This can save you from 10–13 per cent of the cost price. You must ask for a cashback form at the time of purchase.

Traditional Spanish fans are not only the property of flamenco dancers; they are still used by many women to ward off the heat in summer and are not expensive. Embroidered shawls and lace mantillas are sold in specialist outlets like Casa Jiménez. Leather goods aren’t necessarily cheaper than back home, but are of exceptional quality; try Loewe (see Loewe) or Excrupulus Net. The arcades of Plaza Mayor are a good starting point for ceramics and other souvenirs (see Plaza Mayor).

Spain’s number one gastronomic export is not wine, surprisingly, but jamón (ham). There are numerous varieties to choose from – carry out your own tasting survey in the city’s tapas bars before homing-in on your favourite. Wine shopping has become easier with the arrival of wine supermarkets, many of which have cut-price offers.

Look for high-quality antiques in the Salamanca district, especially on Calle de Jorge Juán, Calle de Claudio Coello and the mall on Calle de Lagasca (Centro de Anticuarios Lagasca). The galleries on Ribera de Curtidores (see Calle Ribera de Curtidores) are also worth checking out, as is Calle de Prado, near Sol. For the lower end of the market, head for the Rastro (see El Rastro).

The hunting ground for fashion victims is the Salamanca district which showcases Spanish and international designers. A good starting point is Calle de Serrano or Calle Ortega y Gasset. There are more haute couture stores in Chueca (Calle del Almirante and Calle del Conde de Xiquena). For mainstream clothes, the best areas are Calle de Fuencarral and the streets around Sol.

Clothing and shoe sizes differ from those of the UK and the US. Women’s size 12 (10 in the US), for example is size 40 in Spain. Men’s shirt collar size 15, is 38 in Spain. Shoe size 5 (7 in the US) is 38 in Europe, size 10 (11 in US) is 43. Most main stores have conversion charts and/or knowledgeable staff.

In January 2002 Spain joined 11 other European countries in converting its currency to the euro. The peseta ceased to be legal tender at the end of February 2002, after a stint of more than 140 years as the national currency. The euro is subdivided into 100 céntimos. Euro bank-notes have the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Euro coins come in eight denominations: 1 euro, 2 euros, and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 céntimos. Visitors from outside the euro zone should check the exchange rates at the time of travel.

Bureaux de change are found throughout the city, especially around Puerta del Sol. There are also 24-hour counters at Barajas airport (see Barajas International Airport), the two mainline stations, El Corte Inglés and other central department stores and major hotels. Many banks also have a currency exchange desk and will accept travellers’ cheques as well as cash. Banking hours are Monday to Friday, 8:30am to 2pm. Some branches also open, September to June only, on Saturdays from 9am to 1pm. During the San Isidro festival all banks close at midday.

ATMs abound in Madrid and are the easiest way of getting hold of cash. Those accepting internationally recognized cards will give you a choice of several languages, including English.

Spain is more of a cash society than some other European countries. In Madrid, most hotels and restaurants will take credit cards, but some pensions , tabernas and tapas bars will only accept cash. Shops take cards but may ask to see some identification.

The Main Post Office (Palacio de Communicaciones) in Plaza de Cibeles is a tourist sight in its own right. Opening hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to 9pm, Saturday 8:30am to 2pm. For other post offices (correos ), look for the yellow sign and the crown and post-horn logo. These open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 2:30pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm. Postboxes are yellow.

Another useful place to buy stamps is a tobacconist (estanco ) as queues are shorter than in post offices. These small shops also sell metrobus tickets and are designated with a brown-and-yellow sign.

All Madrid phone numbers are prefixed with 91, followed by seven digits. To phone Spain from overseas, dial the code 00 34. Some public telephones take coins, others accept phonecards which are on sale at post offices, tobacconists and newspaper kiosks. Only a few take credit cards. Local calls are inexpensive and all calls are cheaper between 8pm and 8am, and at weekends and public holidays.

These have been mushrooming all over Madrid in recent years. One of the best is Zahara, which is open daily. It combines a cybercafé and restaurant, offering a good fixed-price menu.

A wide range of foreign daily newspapers is sold at kiosks around Plaza de Cibeles and Puerta de Sol.

Police stations in central Madrid are listed in the front of the Yellow Pages (Páginas Amarillas ). The Central Police Station is at Calle Leganitos. You should report all crimes including theft and lost property for insurance purposes. Keep copies of any statements you make to the police. If you lose your passport, inform your embassy or consulate and the police.

There are casualty departments (Urgencias ) at Hospital General Gregorio Marañón and Hospital La Paz. Other Spanish hospitals are listed in the Yellow Pages by area. For English-speaking doctors and dentists contact the Anglo-American Medical Unit.

If you need an ambulance urgently, dial the city service (SAMUR) on 092, Red Cross Ambulances (ambulancias de la Cruz Roja ) or the emergency number.

An illuminated green cross indicates a pharmacy (farmacía ) which is usually open 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday. If closed, the address of the nearest alternative will be displayed in the window. Pharmacists will treat minor ailments as well as give medical advice – most speak a little English – but bring any prescription medicines with you as you may not be able to find the exact equivalent. Pharmacists will also have information about public health centres and doctors.

Ask at your hotel for the nearest dentist or consult the Yellow Pages . Clínica Dentyred covers 24-hour emergencies. Expect to pay as dentistry is not covered by the E111 form.

Mugging is not very common in Madrid, but it does happen. Avoid travelling alone at night on dark, empty streets, travelling in empty metro carriages and carrying large amounts of cash.

As in most cities, pickpockets operate in crowds and especially at tourist sights. Keep wallets close to hand and be as inconspicuous as possible when handling money in the street.

Madrileños are not the most careful of drivers and tend to take risks – jumping red lights is commonplace. Pedestrians do not automatically have right of way on crossings, and an orange flashing light is generally regarded as “go” by drivers. Crossings are often located at street corners, so keep an eye on cars turning from side roads.

Generally, Spanish men are courteous but chauvinistic. Throw-away compliments (piropos ), sometimes accompanied by a hissing sound to gain attention, are common. A firm rebuttal usually discourages unwelcome advances.