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Royal Madrid : Overview & Top 10

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To wander around this part of Madrid is to be constantly reminded of its regal associations. The Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales and the Monasterio de la Encarnación are both royal foundations, dating from the Hapsburg era, while work on the Palacio Real began in the reign of Felipe V. Joseph Bonaparte was king of Spain for only four years (1808–12), but he laid the plans for the Plaza de Oriente. Further afield, the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida was commissioned by Carlos IV.

You may find binoculars useful for viewing the Goya frescoes in the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida.
  • These two shops on the same street (one in the basement of a cinema) are a treasure house for film buffs, with books, posters, postcards and more.

  • Morning

    Catch the first guided tour of the morning (10:30am) at the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales . On leaving, cross Plaza San Martín to Calle de Hilera, then turn right onto Calle del Arenal. Follow this busy street to Plaza de Isabel II, the best place to admire Madrid’s opera house, the Teatro Real. Follow Calle Felipe V alongside the theatre until you come to Plaza de Oriente and the Palacio Real . The palace is closed at least once a week for official functions but, if it is open, it is worth allocating an hour to looking around.

    There are plenty of places to eat in the vicinity of Plaza de Oriente, for example the café of the same name (see Café de Oriente). A plaque on the wall nearby reminds visitors that this was once the treasury house where the artist Velázquez had his studio.

    Afternoon

    After the frantic activity of the morning, enjoy a restful afternoon in the Casa de Campo park. If you didn’t lunch at a café, a picnic may be a good idea. You could stock up at the Oriente’s delicatessen, just round the corner at Calle Carlos III, 3 (see El Obrador del Café de Oriente). To get to Casa de Campo take the metro from Opera (on Plaza Isabel II) to Lago (line R to Principe Pío, then line 10). Here you can either enjoy a spot of peaceful sunbathing and people-watching, or take in one of the many attractions of the park.

  • If you’ve been bowled over by the 18th-century Talavera ceramics in the Palacio Real, you’ll find that the modern descendants of these craftsmen have not lost their touch. This outlet offers a wide range of hand-painted jugs, plates, mugs and more.

  • Elegant café with velvet seats, stucco ceiling and summer terrace.

  • A treasure trove for admirers of pottery and an excellent place to shop for gifts. Products from all over Spain at very reasonable prices.

  • A good place to try classics such as the dessert bizcocho borracho (“cross-eyed drunk” – sponge cake soaked in wine and syrup).

  • There were plans to build a cathedral on the superb hilltop site as early as the 18th century, but it was not until 1879 that the Marqués de Cubas got the go-ahead for his ambitious design; even then, only the Romanesque-style crypt was actually built. The cathedral was eventually completed in the 1980s by architect Fernando Chueca Goitia and opened by Pope John Paul II in 1993. The Gothic interior comes as a surprise, as the exterior is Neo-Classical to harmonize with the Palacio Real. The magnificent bronze doors were installed in October 2000.

  • Head here after a night on the town for a traditional breakfast of chocolate con churros .

  • This neighbourhood bar has a good choice of seafood tapas . Mahou beer originally came from the factory next door.

  • This family business specializes in all things Flamenco, from beautiful dresses to guitars, CDs, music and videos (see El Flamenco Vive).

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