One of Madrid’s most affluent neighbourhoods, Salamanca is named after its founder, José de Salamanca y Mayol (1811–83). The Marquis first saw the commercial possibilities of the area bordering the Retiro in the 1860s and transformed it into a model of urban planning, with grid-patterned streets and elegant mansions. The new neighbourhood was an immediate hit with the upper classes who found the central districts stifling and their own antiquated homes lacking in such mod-cons as flushing toilets and hot running water. Salamanca soon acquired a reputation as a bastion of conservatism and its residents were among the most loyal supporters of the Franco regime. Today the streets around Calle de Serrano, Calle de Goya and Calle de Velázquez form Madrid’s premier shopping district and showcase some of Spain’s leading fashion designers. The prices, though, may leave you breathless – shopaholics take note.
Guide to restaurant prices-
Morning
Leave Serrano metro station, heading south and limber up with a spot of window shopping on Salamanca’s main fashion drag. Turn left into Calle Columela – try not to pay too much attention to Mallorca’s mouthwatering displays of cakes and pastries – then left again into Calle Claudio Coello, a delightful street lined with private art galleries, antique shops and boutiques. Don’t miss Capa Sculptures (No. 19) and Monasterio Antígüedades (No. 21). Look left at Calle de Goya for the entrance to the shopping mall, El Jardín de Serrano . Cross Goya, then continue along Calle de Claudio Coello to Calle de Hermosilla.
As many Spanish shops still take an extended lunch break and siesta from 2pm to 5pm, this is the perfect moment to stop for lunch. Choices abound, but leading contenders include Teatríz for more formal eating, the tapas bar at Estay or the reasonably priced pizza and pasta joint, Gino’s .
Afternoon
Give Calle de Hermosilla the once-over, then resume your walk on Calle Claudio Coello, which boasts designer names such as Angel Schlesser, Antonio Pernas and Cristina Castañer . At Calle de Ayala turn left to return to Calle de Serrano, where you can either ogle over the designer goods and dream, or blow your budget on a beautiful handbag or pair of shoes.
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Showcasing the collections of one of Spain’s leading designers, famous for elegant understatement. No.18 specializes in casual clothes, including jeans.
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Men and women’s fashions by one of the country’s most original designers, noted for her daring use of colour. Her name can also be found on the accessories, stationery and household goods sold here.
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Well-established restaurant serving up North African specialities.
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Quality home cooking from the Basque country is the highlight here.
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This firm has been in the perfume business for more than a century, selling its own line of eau de cologne. Also top brand names like Chanel and Estée Lauder and Bulgari jewellery.
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Like Roberto Verino, Spanish designer Angel Schlesser was labelled “dissident” but has now moved into the mainstream with his distinctive style of clothes and accessories for men and women. Trademarks include lowkey colours and attention to detail.
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Beautifully tailored men’s and women’s wear (suits, winter coats etc.) in a traditional vein, using the best fabrics.
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The haunt of journalists and leading cultural figures, the Gijón was founded in 1888 and is one of the few surviving tertulia cafés where, traditionally, men gathered to discuss issues of the day. Former patrons include the poet Federico García Lorca, the American film director Orson Welles and – more improbably – the famous Dutch spy and belly-dancer, Mata Hari. Order tapas and drinks at the bar or book a table for lunch. The windows look out on to Paseo de Recoletos where the café has its own terrace.
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This side-street off Serrano has everything from cut-glass decanters to beach bags. For designer clothes for children, try Nanos (No. 21). Vista Alegre (No. 29) has a glittering array of Portuguese-made tableware. If you’re off on safari but still want to look elegant, Colonel Tapioca (No. 32) fits the bill with backpacks, cord shorts, shirts and hats for the fashion-conscious. Estay is just the job for a spot of lunch. Next door but one is Tea Shop (No. 48), with more than 40 aromatic teas, including rum, toffee, cherry and passion fruit.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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