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The former residence of Spain’s Bourbon rulers boasts more rooms than any other palace in Europe. With priceless collections of tapestries, clocks, paintings, furniture, even Stradivarius violins, there is something here for everyone (see Palacio Real).

A Madrid institution, this large beer hall is the perfect place to unwind after a day’s sightseeing or to begin a night on the town. Both dark beer and lager are available on draught – some madrileños like to mix the two (see Cervecería Santa Bárbara).

This well-known vegetarian restaurant features a nettle purée among other imaginative dishes. Also organic wines and herbal teas. No smoking.

Unpretentious restaurant serving vegetarian dishes. House speciality is spinach and mushroom tart (tarta de setas y espinacas ).

This treasure-house of modern Spanish art was designed as a hospital by Francisco Sabatini in 1756. The conversion to art gallery was completed in 1990. The glass elevators offer panoramic views (see Centro de Arte Reina Sofía).

Founded by Queen Isabel II in 1867, the archaeological museum contains treasures from most of the world’s ancient civilizations with an emphasis on the Iberian Peninsula. Highlights include the carved sculpture, the “Lady of Elche”, a noblewoman from the 4th century BC (see Museo Arqueológico Nacional).

One of the many pluses of the Decorative Arts Museum is that it sets Spanish crafts in a European context. Highlights include the Gothic bedroom, Flemish tapestries and a collection of 19th-century fans (see Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas).

This huge Water Park, about 40 km (25 miles) south of the city, opened in 1998. Apart from the exhilarating water slides, the facilities include mini-golf and a large swimming pool. If you have a car, the park could be combined with a visit to Aranjuez.

The city’s largest green space and Felipe II’s favourite hunting ground was opened to the public with the overthrow of the monarchy in 1931. Attractively planted with pines, oaks, poplars, and other trees, there are also huge areas of open space, mostly scrub. The amenities include cafés, picnic areas, restaurants and a boating lake, not to mention the zoo and the Parque de Atracciones amusement park (see Parque de Atracciones).

Surprisingly, the gardens in the palace grounds were not laid out until the 19th century. The name, “Moor’s field” refers to the Arab general, Ali Ben Yusuf, who is said to have camped here while besieging the city after it had fallen to the Christians. On a fine day, the views of the palace and the Casa de Campo from here are unbeatable (see Palacio Real).