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The Christmas Fair on Plaza Mayor has more than 100 booths, selling cribs (belenes ), crib figures, trees and decorations. The official crib is housed outside the Casa de la Carnicería.

Rounding off the Christmas festivities is the Cabalgata de Reyes (procession of the kings). Floats parade along Calle Alcalá, through Puerta del Sol, ending in Plaza Mayor. The three kings are played by local politicians.

To be among the crowds on the Puerta del Sol on the most exciting night of the year is an unforgettable experience. On the stroke of midnight join the revellers in observing the custom of swallowing grapes, one after each chime. Bags of grapes and bottles of sparkling wine are sold from stalls nearby.

Begin the morning at Plaza de la Villa with its handsome 16th- and 17th-century palaces. Take the busy Calle Mayor as far as Calle de Felipe III, then turn into Plaza Mayor . Cross this magnificent square diagonally, leaving by the ancient Calle Toledo, once the main exit south from the city. On the way look out for the Hernanz rope store (see Casa Hernanz) and other reminders that this was once an artisans’ quarter. Looming on the left is the Baroque Colegiata de San Isidro . Continue to La Latina metro.

Turn and follow Plaza de la Cebada, past the modern covered market. Turn right into Plaza del Humilladero and cross this square to the adjoining Plaza de San Andrés and its huge domed church. Straight ahead is a 16th-century palace, now the Museo San Isidro . Follow the path round the back of the church into Costanilla de San Andrés, a narrow street which opens onto the historic Plaza de la Paja, a good area for bars and restaurants. On the corner of Calle de Alfonso VI is the Colegio de San IIdefonso whose students chant the results of the Christmas National Lottery in a distinctive sing-song.

By now you’ll probably be ready for a well-earned lun-ch. Vegetarians will be tempted by El Estragón (Costanilla de San Andrés 10); another good choice is the Taberna Bilbao next door (No.8).

Start this evening walk around 5pm when the shops re-open after the siesta . Take the metro to Chueca, emerging on Plaza de Chueca, heart of Madrid’s gay quarter. Look out for Taberna del Angel Sierra, a traditional tiled bar with zinc counter and painted ceiling (see Taberna de Angel Sierra). From here take Calle de Gravina into Calle del Almirante. These streets are the wealthy shopper’s paradise, with designer names jockeying for position on both sides. Turn onto Calle de la Libertad, then take a right at Calle de Augusto Figueroa, famous for shoes sold at knock-down prices.

Cross Calle de Hortaleza and continue to Calle de Fuencarral. Turn right here, heading for the Museo Municipal and spend a few minutes browsing in the excellent bookshop. A little further on turn left into Calle Manuela Malasaña.

Trendy Malasaña is full of enticing restaurants and tapas bars so make a mental note of anywhere that takes your fancy for later. Turn left into Calle de San Andrés, passing the Taberna del Foro , then cross Plaza del Dos de Mayo. If you’ve worked up a thirst, the bistro-bar El 2De at No. 25 will fit the bill. Continue along Calle de San Andrés to Calle de San Vicente Ferrer. Return for dinner at your chosen tapas bar, then head for home on Calle de San Vicente Ferrer for the metro at Tribunal, or head off for a night on the tiles.