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This treasure-house of modern Spanish art was designed as a hospital by Francisco Sabatini in 1756. The conversion to art gallery was completed in 1990. The glass elevators offer panoramic views (see Centro de Arte Reina Sofía).

Madrid was the envy of the world when it outbid the Getty Foundation and other front runners for this priceless collection of European art, which attracts around three quarters of a million visitors every year (see Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza).

The roots of Madrid’s famous flea market go back more than 400 years. The location in Lavapiés, one of Madrid’s most colourful working-class neighbourhoods, is another plus (see El Rastro).

The Royal Palace marks a decisive break with the austere tastes of Spain’s Hapsburg rulers. Felipe V had been brought up at Versailles where the International Baroque style was in vogue. Architect Filippo Juvara died two years into the project, but his successor, Gian Battista Sachetti retained the Baroque spirit (see Palacio Real).

Real Madrid’s arch-rivals, Atlético de Madrid, play across the River Manzanares in a 55,000-seater stadium, completed in 1966. For most of its history, the club has lived in the shadow of Real Madrid, but all is forgotten when the two clash in annual matches, billed as the “dual of the gods”. The club’s best season was in 1996 when they brought off a league and cup double, but four years later they suffered the humiliation of being relegated to the second division. Atlético’s fans are known as the colchoneros (mattress boys) after their red-and-white striped shirts.

Ceramic motifs cover the bar and façade of this classic Madrid taberna (see Taberna La Daniela).

Founded in 1910 as a liberal college, early alumni here included artist Salvador Dalí and poet Federico García Lorca. Designed by Antonio Flórez, the main building was nicknamed “transatlantic” by students because the balustrade resembled the rail of an ocean liner.

Art Nouveau is usually associated with Barcelona rather than Madrid and, in fact, this superb example is by the Catalan architect José Grases Riera. Bold and original in design, take a close look at the florid sculptural detail, the sensuous curves and the balustrade – all typical Art Nouveau features (see Palacio Longoría).

The decoration of this traditional Madrid bakery borders on the palatial. The produce is just as good – every conceivable type of bread, as well as seasonal specialities such as roscón de Reyes and turrón .

In 1767, Carlos III broke with tradition by allowing members of the public into the Retiro, providing they were “washed and suitably dressed”. However it was not until the 1860s and the advent of the First Republic that the partitions separating the royal enclosure from the public area were finally torn down for good (see Parque del Retiro).

The botanical garden is the perfect place to recharge the batteries after the exhausting walk around the Prado Museum. The shady paths are lined with statues, the air cooled by judiciously sited fountains (see Real Jardín Botánico).

This former poorhouse is now a museum tracing the history of the capital from the earliest times to the present day. Prize exhibits include mosaic fragments from a local Roman villa, pottery from the time of the Muslim occupation, a bust of Felipe II, and Goya’s Allegory of the City of Madrid (Dos de Mayo) . The star attraction is a wooden model of the city, made in 1830 by León Gil de Palacio. As you leave, take a look at the elaborately sculpted Baroque portal, dating from the 1720s.

The venerated Real Madrid football club celebrated its centenary in 2002, although this 75,000-seater stadium was not completed until 1946. It is named after Santiago Bernabéu, the club president who brought the team five successive European championships in the 1950s. This success has continued – in 1998 FIFA, soccer’s world governing body, voted Real Madrid the “best club in the history of football”. Their tally to date includes a further 4 European cups, as well as 17 domestic cups and 28 league championships. Visitors can inspect the winning silverware by visiting the sala de trofeos (trophy room) at the ground. The club also has its own website and television station, broadcasting 20 hours a day from the training ground. The players are known locally as merengues (“meringues”) because of their all-white strip.

Attracts a loyal clientele for its tapas , said to be among the best in the city – the tortilla is heavenly.

Stunning tiled façade and interior, dating from the early 20th century (see Taberna de Angel Sierra).

One of Madrid’s great cultural institutions, the Ateneo was founded in 1835 to promote the arts and sciences. The building contains a library of half a million volumes.

These delightful 18th-century gardens belonged to the palace of the Duke and Duchess of Osuna and were landscaped by Jean-Baptiste Mulot, the gardener at Versailles, outside Paris. They have been restored to their former glory with tree-lined paths, fountains, a lake and follies.

This narrow street, permanently clogged with traffic, is worth negotiating for its original and offbeat shops. High street fashions are represented by outlets such as Mango (No. 9) but for something more outré , check out the party fashions at No. 47, or the seductive underwear at Chocolate (No. 20). La Reserva (No. 64) sells silver jewellery handmade by Navajo Indians, as well as Mexican belts and snakeskin wallets. Café Pozo (No. 53) offers its own blends of coffee and tea, while Retoque (No. 49), founded in 1920, goes in for picture frames and modern art posters.

At 1,860 m (6,100 ft) Navacerrada is the gateway to the Sierra de Guadarrama. Ski enthusiasts head straight for the Navacerrada Pass (Puerto de Navacerrada), but the town itself should not be overlooked. Apart from the parish church, which has an impressive 15th-century tower, and the 16th-century Church of the Nativity, the craft shops are worth a browse. Cafés abound on Plaza Mayor and there are hiking and cycling trails in the surrounding forests.

Set against the stunning backdrop of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains, Felipe II’s awe-inspiring palace and monastery was founded as a mausoleum for Spain’s Habsburg rulers (see El Escorial).

Unpretentious restaurant serving vegetarian dishes. House speciality is spinach and mushroom tart (tarta de setas y espinacas ).

The restaurant was designed by Philippe Starck, the menu is Mediterranean.

Head here after a night on the town for a traditional breakfast of chocolate con churros .

The haunt of journalists and leading cultural figures, the Gijón was founded in 1888 and is one of the few surviving tertulia cafés where, traditionally, men gathered to discuss issues of the day. Former patrons include the poet Federico García Lorca, the American film director Orson Welles and – more improbably – the famous Dutch spy and belly-dancer, Mata Hari. Order tapas and drinks at the bar or book a table for lunch. The windows look out on to Paseo de Recoletos where the café has its own terrace.

This popular watering hole has a pedigree going back more than 200 years – Goya sold some of his paintings here. The pub was given a makeover in the 1980s and the owner claims it was the first bar in Madrid to celebrate St Patrick’s night. That was when they started serving Guinness and home-made tortilla , one of the mainstays of an enticing tapas menu. The subdued lighting, mellow music and amiable clientele create an addictive ambience (see La Ardosa).

This modernized hotel, convenient for the Palacio Real and the Gran Vía, is furnished with strategically placed statues and old paintings to give it a touch of elegance. Though small, the rooms are comfortable and stylish – try for one on the fifth floor where there are tiny balconies with views of the city.

An attractive 3-star option on one of Madrid’s most historic streets. Rooms (some with balcony) are comfortable, with double glazing.