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This classic Madrid stew goes back to the days when the working-class housewives of (see Lavapiés) and (see La Latina) would keep a cooking pot simmering on the stove, adding whatever ingredients came to hand. Today’s typical cocido might include pigs’ trotters, beef shank, chicken, sausage, chickpeas and vegetables. Served in stages, first the broth, then the vegetables and meats, it can be a meal in itself. For an up-market version, try La Bola (see La Bola).

The Castilian countryside is famous for its roasts. To be authentic, suckling pig should be cooked slowly in a wood-fired oven until the flesh is tender and the skin golden. Lamb (cordero ) and game such as partridge (perdiz ) and pheasant (faisán ) are equally delicious when roasted in the traditional way.

Tripe may not be to everyone’s taste, but try it “Madrid-style” in a typical taberna and you may change your mind. The ingredients of this tasty stew include chorizo (Spanish sausage), tomatoes, onions and paprika.

It is said that there are as many ways of cooking this Mediterranean staple of salted cod as there are days in the year. The American writer Ernest Hemingway relished bacalao al ajoarriero , a cod stew made with tomatoes, peppers and garlic.

Sunny Valencia is the acknowledged home of this most famous Spanish rice dish. While traditionally cooked with fish and shellfish, you’ll also find meat-based paellas (usually rabbit or chicken). The name comes from the two-handled, shallow iron pan in which it is cooked and served.

Octopus “Galician style” originated in a part of the country famous for its fish and seafood dishes. Usually served on a wooden platter, it comes in slices on a layer of potato, with a large dose of oil and a sprinkling of paprika. Pulpo gallego is extremely popular in Madrid.

Asturian farmers swear by this nourishing bean soup as the best way of keeping out the cold. Served piping hot, the other main ingredient is morcilla (black pudding). Ideally, wash it down with a glass of Asturian cider.

Spider crab is a Basque delicacy which, purists say, should be served on its own. It is so strongly flavoured that some chefs mix the meat with other seafood before seasoning with parsley and garlic, and returning it to the shell to serve.

Another north country favourite is hake fried in bread-crumbs. This versatile fish is equally tasty cooked in a béchamel (white) sauce made with spicy piquillo peppers, then stuffed into red peppers.

The famous cold soup hails from Andalucia. Gazpacho ’s main ingredients are tomatoes, garlic, cucumber and vinegar, with puréed bread for body.