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Like all genuine Madrid tascas , this pub on the edge of Salamanca serves its customers a tasty appetizer with each drink, to give them an idea of what’s on offer. Bacalao croquettes – béchamel paste deep fried with nuggets of cod – are the house speciality (see Tasca La Farmacia).

When Ciriaco first opened its doors in 1906, most of the customers were artists, writers and other Bohemian types. Nowadays it’s more respectable but Ciriaco has preserved its reputation for excellent tapas . The boquerones (anchovies in vinegar) go down a treat with a glass of the house wine (see Casa Ciriaco).

Bring your camera when you visit this wonderfully over-the-top bar, often overlooked by tourists. Every inch of space is crammed with bric-à-brac – signed basketball shirts, old telephones, beer barrels, bull’s heads, you name it. Steer your way to the bar for a glass of beer and a plate of shrimps. While you’re about it, take a look at the tempting array of canapés, filled rolls and tapas .

Near Plaza Santa Ana, “Grandad’s place” is a spit-and-sawdust bar with bags of atmosphere. It’s customary to order the house wine to accompany the tapas – variations around the humble shrimp. Try them grilled in their shells (a la plancha ) or peeled and fried in oil and garlic (al ajillo ). Standing room only (see La Casa del Abuelo).

The bocaítos are small squares of toasted bread, served with a topping of salmon or anchovies. They are the mainstay of an extensive tapas menu. Expect quality rather than quantity and keep an eye on how much you’re spending, as it’s quite easy to run up a fair sized bill (see Bocaíto).

The hurdy-gurdy by the door plays a version of the chotis , a traditional dance still performed by madrileños at the San Isidro festival. Order a plate of snails (caracoles ) and a glass of beer. The dining room also serves other typical Madrid fare (see El Oso y El Madroño).

This picturesque inn is more than 150 years old, and is still known for its traditional madrileño cooking, although it’s the sophisticated Basque dishes that grab the headlines (see Carmencita).

The sign says “wine shop” (Tienda de Vinos ) but this taberna has been known as “The Communist” since the postwar days when proprietor Vincent Gómez fed hard-up writers and artists. The prices are still good. The menu includes standards like garlic soup, washed down with house wine (see El Comunista).

This Lavapiés hostelry dates from 1830. The wooden furniture and bullfighting memorabilia are as authentic as the menu of tortilla and stews (see Taberna de Antonio Sánchez).

The speciality here is cod croquettes. If you don’t fancy standing at the bar, classic Madrid dishes are served in the wood-panelled room at the back (see Casa Labra).