Known variously as the “Golden Isle”, the “Wooded Isle” and the “Tranquil Isle”, Mallorca is all of these, despite its decades-long dependence on mass tourism. The island is laden with history and sights, from its castles and enchanted gardens to caves and spectacular mountains. The eastern and southern coasts still sport some of the cleanest, most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean, and the city of Palma is more attractive, culturally alive and fun than ever.
Mallorca (or Majorca) gets its name from the ancient Roman name for the island, Balearis Major, meaning the “biggest Balearic”-
This monastery is on top of Puig de Bonany. A stone cross was erected here in 1749 for Junípero Serra (see Petra), before he left on a mission to California. The sanctuary was built in the 17th century as an act of thanksgiving for a good harvest – bon any or “good year”. The modern church dates from 1925 and is entered via an imposing gate decorated with ceramic portraits of St Paul and St Anthony. The forecourt has panoramic views.
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Just to the south of Pollença, this serene place with marvellous views houses one of the oldest Gothic images of the Virgin on the island. The unassuming stone complex, dating mostly to the 18th century, comprises a courtyard, a chapel, fortified walls, a refectory and cells. You can rent a room here (see Santuari del Puig de Maria, Pollença).
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As with all of Mallorca’s religious retreats, it’s the serenity of ageless isolation that rewards. Though located only a one-hour walk from atmospheric Pollença, it feels like you’re a world away from modern life, on this modest bump of a hill, barely 300 m (984 ft) high. Over the centuries, the typically tawny-hued stone complex has been home to both nuns and monks, but now, although still Church property, only overnight guests use the cubicles (see Ermita de Bonany, Petra). A well-laid dry-stone path leads the way, the air redolent with wild herbs and the pungent smell of rural life, the arid landscape broken up with olive, carob and fig trees, and dashes of oleander and wildflowers.
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At Cala Tuent on the wild northern coast is a small 13th-century hermitage perched high above the coast. It was remote then and remains relatively so today.
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Just east of Montuïri is a small monastery with views over the fertile fields of Es Pla. Facilities include a café-restaurant and nicely restored monks’ cells where, for a nominal amount, you can stay so long as you don’t mind sharing a bathroom.
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Includes art and sculptures by Cézanne, Gauguin and Picasso.
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This local café is steeped in tradition. Just sitting here for a few minutes will send you into a timeless state of rural, rustic life that can melt away the most frenetic habits. It’s also a perfect place, in the shadow of the ancient church portal, to try a time-honoured orxata , a sweet, creamy soft drink made from tiger nuts.
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A café in the town’s central square, where you can study the magnificent parish church and listen to birds chirping.
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The feel is North African, with live music and art exhibited. Moroccan and Middle Eastern cuisine is on offer, such as delicious hummus, tabouleh and tajines.
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Closest to Palma on the eastern side, at Ca’n Pastilla, this is another popular gay gathering point.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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