You haven’t really seen Mallorca until you’ve wended your way over Es Pla (The Plain). People argue whether the mountains or coast represents the real Mallorca, but the true heart of the island is surely to be found in the villages here, which make few concessions to tourism. This is where food is grown and where most of the island’s leatherworkers, potters and the manufacturers of traditional robes de llengües (cloth of flame) and the prized artificial pearls are based.
If you are buying wine at Binissalem, remember crianza is good, reserva even better and gran reserva the best For more on the isolated monasteries of Es Pla (see Monasteries) Take care when driving on the narrow roads in this region. Signs from town to town are abundant, but there are few other markers-
Morning
Begin in the north, at Sa Pobla , where you should be sure to visit the cemetery and Museu de la Jugeta . Proceed south to Muro for a look at the handsome Sant Joan Baptista church and the Museu Etnològic .
Drive through pretty Santa Margalida, then Maria de la Salut, and on to medieval Sineu, at the geographic centre of the island, where you can stroll and have a drink at Es Cadafal café.
By now, it should be about lunchtime, so continue on to Petra to have a wonderfully elegant meal at Sa Plaça and to check out the hometown of Fray Junípero Serra.
Afternoon
After lunch, make your way on through Sant Joan and then to appealing Montuïri, with its signature windmills. Next, cut down to Porreres and take the road from there to Llucmajor. Be sure to stop off along the way for a walk around the quaintly picturesque grounds of the Finca Son Sama.
The last leg of the journey is to head back north to Algaida, being sure to pop into Raïms for a look at its timeless charm.
Finally, just to the west of Algaida, take a prolonged tour of the Gordiola Glassworks, with its superb museum and shop.
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The place to find the wrought-iron objects seen all over the island – candelabra, mirrors etc.
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On the main square, this bar has a local feel and decor. You’ll find pa amb oli, tapas and salads.
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Don’t be put off by its brutal appearance from the highway. Hidden behind the commercial tackiness, the historic centre dates back to the ancient Romans, and is now dominated by centuries-old stone mansions very much worth a stroll around. The town’s wealth arose from its pre-eminence as the island’s wine producer, starting 500 years ago. In recent years, after a century or so of decline, its reputation has again been on the rise, as evidenced by the important winery outlets along the main road (see José L. Ferrer, Binissalem).
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The famous Spanish shoes are made right here and you can have first pick of the newest styles at reduced prices. Follow the billboards featuring a huge foot.
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The restaurant is housed in an atmospheric wine bodega. Choose from lechona (suckling pig), arroz brut (peasant rice), tumbet (stewed vegetables) and caracoles (snails).
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Set in a 400-year-old inn, the restaurant is popular with locals, and local meats and vegetables are used for traditional dishes, such as snails in broth.
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The delicious Mallorcan food makes up for its touristy image. The 1-kg (2-lb) lamb chop feeds four and comes with salad, red wine, lemonade and bread.
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This country house chronicles 200 years of the life of Mallorca’s gentry in a more modest version of Sa Granja. Demonstrations of traditional methods are part of the tour, and you can see historic breeds of Mallorcan farm animals.
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A café in the town’s central square, where you can study the magnificent parish church and listen to birds chirping.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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