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As most visitors have to wait before their tour begins, the proprietors have thoughtfully created a beautiful garden by the entrance. Mediterranean trees and plants, such as olives, figs, violets and hibiscus provide the setting for striking displays of limestone – one piece even evokes the shape of a dragon. Gorgeous peacocks roam around.

Visitors descend to the caves through the Luis Armand Chamber, part of the Frenchman’s Cave, which was discovered by Martel. The three other main caverns are called Black Cave, White Cave and Luis Salvador’s Cave. The path is smooth and even, and no guide speaks, so that visitors have the opportunity to contemplate the scale and beauty of the place in peace.

Thousands of stalactites (those hanging from above), stalagmites (those below), and columns (where the two meet) range from the finest needles to ponderous, monumental massifs. There are also deep ravines, at the bottom of which you can see crystalline, impossibly aquamarine and turquoise pools.

The cave illuminations are the work of engineer Carlos Buigas. Crevices, chasms, planes and spaces are highlighted to maximize the effects of chiaroscuro and depth.

Formations dubbed the “Inquisition Chamber” or “Ariadne’s Labyrinth” were so named in the Middle Ages; the “Buddha” and “Flag” speak of more modern imaginations.

Of the several subterranean lakes here, Lake Martel is one of the world’s largest, at 177 m (580 ft) long, with an average width of 30 m (98 ft). Its calm waters reflect the lighting effects of the performances.

Seated in an amphitheatre, in near pitch-darkness, the audience is regaled with a touching display at the end of the tour. Hypnotic lighting effects are accompanied by live music from a small chamber ensemble, floating by on a rowboat. Highlights include Albinoni’s Adagio , Pachelbel’s Canon and serene works by Bach, Handel, Chopin, Boccherini and others.

As a delightful climax to the performance, visitors are offered boat rides on the lake – eight to a boat – steered by skilled gondoliers who employ an elegant figure-of-eight rowing style.

Visitors exit by foot past the Lake of the Grand Duchess of Tuscany and Chamber of the Columns to the Vestibule, which is a funnel-like tunnel leading back up to the surface.

A short walk from the caves brings you to a surprisingly good aquarium. The lower floor has scores of exotic species; the upper floor is devoted to denizens of the Mediterranean.