DK Travel : Malta & Gozo : Ħal-Saflieni Hypogeum, Paola

Ħal-Saflieni Hypogeum, Paola

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This vast underground necropolis is quite simply one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world. It was hewn from the rock around 3600 BC, and later expanded by tunnelling yet deeper. The stunning chambers, carved with incredible delicacy and refinement, echo the forms of the above-ground temples found across the islands. Around 7,000 bodies were found here, deposited over a period of a thousand years. This suggests that only certain members of society were eligible for burial here – but, like so much else relating to Malta’s prehistoric temple-building culture, there are more questions than answers.
Book months in advance; only 80 people are allowed to visit the Hypogeum daily and there is a long waiting list. Note that there is no admission for children under six years of age. There is nowhere to eat well in Paola. On the main square in front of the church there are several pastizzi vendors. The Hypogeum is poorly signposted in Paola. Luckily, the locals are very used to being asked for directions. The Hypogeum’s function remains mysterious; some eccentrics have contended that it was a control centre for alien spaceships.

Top 10 Features

1. Entrance Trilithon

Most of the constructions in the upper level of the Hypogeum were destroyed by builders in the early 1900s. But the entrance doorway, in the typical trilithon form of two large stones supporting a lintel, has survived intact.
2. Upper Level (3600–3300 BC)

The upper level is the oldest section of the Hypogeum and it is apparent that the temple-builders originally enlarged a natural cave. This is the only level of the necropolis in which some ancient bones have been left in situ.
3. Second Level (3300–3000 BC)

The most important chambers – and the most accomplished examples of stone-carving and decoration – are found on this level.
4. Third Level (3000-2400 BC)

The third level is reached via a series of uneven steps. It is thought that these chambers were used for storage, as no bones were found. This level was built at around the time that the temple-building civilization came to its mysterious end.
5. Oracle Chamber

The red-ochre swirls that decorate the ceiling of this extraordinary chamber are thought to symbolize the Tree of Life. An “oracle hole” carved into the wall allows low-pitched (usually male) voices to reverberate impressively around the chamber.
6. Holy of Holies

This is easily the most impressive of all the chambers in the Hypogeum, entered through a magnificently carved monumental façade featuring a fine trilithon doorway. This entrance echoes those of temples found above ground, but is here carved into the rock.
7. Main Chamber

A series of recesses are set into the curved walls of the main chamber. Their function remains unclear. Perhaps statues were placed here, or perhaps the dead were left here before finally being buried elsewhere.
8. Snake Pit

Just off the main chamber is a small cavern, which is known as the “snake pit” or “votive pit”. It is possible that it was used for holding animals to be used for sacrifice. The famous statue of the Sleeping Lady was found here.
9. Sleeping Lady

9. Sleeping Lady

This is the most beautiful of all the statues found in Malta’s ancient temples. The enormously plump woman dreams serenely. Perhaps she symbolizes death – or is a priestess in a trance.
10. Recovered Artifacts

The many artifacts found in the Hypogeum include amulets, figurines and vases. One of the most curious is a headless statue. It was found with two limestone heads, one of which fits perfectly.

Practical Information

Book months in advance; only 80 people are allowed to visit the Hypogeum daily and there is a long waiting list. Note that there is no admission for children under six years of age. There is nowhere to eat well in Paola. On the main square in front of the church there are several pastizzi vendors. Triq Ic-Ċimiterju 2180 5019 Open daily 9am–4pm Adm Lm4 (senior citizens, students and children 6–17 Lm2) Advance booking essential www.heritagemaltashop.com (bookings); www.heritagemalta.com (information)