The Citadel, Rabat/Victoria, Gozo
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All roads in Gozo lead to Victoria – or Rabat to locals. The Gozitan capital is crowned by the walled Citadel, the hilltop city whose handsome silhouette is visible from almost everywhere on the island. For many years, the island of Gozo was plagued by raiding corsairs and Saracens, who took the people into slavery. Life was so dangerous that, right up until 1673, the population was required by law, for their own safety, to spend every night within the Citadel. Now rather charmingly run down, the Citadel offers magnificent views, a fine cathedral and a clutch of fascinating museums.
The Citadel Card offers admission to four museums for Lm2. Audio guides can be picked up at the Cathedral ticket office. Ta’ Rikardu is a popular choice for a snack. The Citadel’s museums are open from 9am–5:15pm. Last admission is at 4:30pm. In Jan 2008, Malta abandons the Maltese lira (Lm) and adopts the euro (€). As this book goes to press, Lm1 is equivalent to €2.33.
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1. Walls
1. WallsThe Citadel’s sturdy walls owe their appearance to the Knights, who had them substantially reinforced after their victory over the Turks in 1565. Although the Turkish threat had been quelled, the Knights feared vengeance.
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2. Cathedral
2. CathedralThe lavish Baroque cathedral was designed by the renowned Lorenzo Gafa and completed in 1716. It is only the latest place of worship on this site; a megalithic temple is thought to have occupied the hilltop 7,000 years ago.
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3. Cathedral Museum
3. Cathedral MuseumThe Cathedral Museum contains some eccentric items – like the stole of El Salvadorean Archbishop Oscar Romero, assassinated in 1980 while saying mass.
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4. Museum of Archaeology
4. Museum of ArchaeologyHoused in the elegant Casa Bondi, this museum contains wonderful artifacts from Ġgantija, Xaġhra Circle and other Gozitan sites. Look out for the beautiful “shaman’s bundle”.
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5. City Gate
The main city gate is very plain, punched through the walls in the 1950s to allow the statue of Santa Marija from the Cathedral to pass. The original city gate is a few steps away.
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6. Folklore Museum
6. Folklore MuseumThree adjoining period houses host this intriguing museum. Displays of rural Gozitan life include reconstructions of typical homes, a grain mill and tools for various crafts.
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7. Old Prison
7. Old PrisonThis was in use from the mid-16th to the 20th centuries. The cells and corridors are still etched with prisoners’ graffiti, including a rendition of a galley with its oars. As a young man, Grand Master de la Vallette was imprisoned here after a brawl.
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8. Norman Ruins
Much of the northern part of the Citadel consists of ruined houses, walls and streets, which in many cases have been reduced to rubble. Many date back to the 12th century; EU funds are being sought for reconstruction.
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9. Natural Science Museum
9. Natural Science MuseumThis small museum, located in a 17th-century inn, has rather dull exhibits related to Gozo’s wildlife, geography and geology. Pride of place goes to a fragment of moon rock, which was donated to the Maltese people by US President Richard Nixon.
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10. Gozo Crafts Centre
A good place to get an overview of local crafts, particularly lace-making and silk, cotton and wool weaving. Cosy woven rugs, sweaters and other items are usually available to buy.
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