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These traditional brightly painted boats are said to owe their design to the ancient Phoenicians, who first arrived in Malta around 800 BC. The Eye of Osiris, an ancient symbol of protection against evil, is still painted on every prow.

The picturesque harbour of Marsaxlokk is hemmed in by quays strewn with brilliantly coloured fishing nets of cobalt blue and emerald green. The local fishermen are usually hard at work fixing boats or mending nets.

A section of the quays is dedicated to a daily market, where all kinds of clothes, souvenirs, CDs and sunglasses are sold. On Sundays, the tourist tat makes way for fresh fish.

Marsaxlokk’s fish market is a local legend. Locals and tourists alike come to gawp at the array of fabulous fresh produce on the seafront stalls. If buying fish, look for bright eyes and red gills.

This pretty little church sits just back from the harbour. As in many Maltese churches, it has two clocks – one painted and permanently set at a few moments before the witching hour of midnight to ward off evil spirits.

Many of the old fishermen’s houses that surround the quays have been converted into fish restaurants. A long, lazy seafood lunch after a visit to the fish market is a Sunday tradition.

A monument on the coast road from Marsaxlokk to Birżebbuġa commemorates the historic meeting of Mikhail Gorbachev and George Bush Sr on board a cruiser in Marsaxlokk Bay in 1989; this marked the beginning of the end of the Cold War.

This squat little fortress guards the headland beyond Marsaxlokk. It was erected by the Knights in 1610 as part of their coastal defences. Now it houses the Malta Centre for Fisheries Sciences (not open to the public).

This long finger of land sticks into the sea beyond Marsaxlokk harbour. It is is quiet and rural, with tiny bays, fields, wonderful walks – and a power plant.

The closest swimming hole to Marsaxlokk, this is hidden away on the eastern side of Delimara Point. Fishing boats will take you there if you don’t have your own transport.