DK Travel : Marrakech

An oasis in every sense of the word, Marrakech was once a beacon for the trading caravans that had driven north through the desert and navigated over the often snow-capped Atlas Mountains. Marrakech may be Morocco’s third most important city after Rabat and Casablanca, but its fabulous palaces and lush palm groves exercise a powerful hold over tourists. It has always been the place where sub-Saharan Africa meets Arab North Africa, and, even today, this market town located on the edge of nowhere remains a compellingly exotic port of call.

A day by the sea

Morning

It is possible to do Essaouira as a day trip from Marrakech. You can get an early morning CTM bus from gare routière or a grand taxi from a rank behind the bus station and arrive by 10 or 11am (although Essaouira is worth at least a couple of days if you can spare the time). You will probably enter the city from the Bab Marrakech and follow Rue Mohammed El Qorry to the main crossroads of the medina, which is also the middle of the souks. Walk south down Avenue de L’Istiqlal, taking a right turn into busy, shop-lined Rue Attarine. A first left then leads down to Place Moulay Hassan , a great place for a snack at one of the many cafés. Follow the squawks of the seagulls south to the port and a lunch of grilled sardines.

Afternoon

From the port, backtrack to Place Moulay Hassan but take a left at the famed Taros and follow the narrow alley, Rue de la Skala, on the inside of the high sea wall. There are some interesting boutiques here. After a short walk, a ramp leads up to the ramparts for a wonderful view. Descend and then continue to the mellah, the old Jewish quarter. Find your way back to the souks and again follow Avenue de L’Istiqlal south. Take a left along Avenue du Caire, exiting by the Bab Sbâa and turning left for the beach. The Chalet de la Plage is perfect for an early (or late) dinner by the ocean.
A Day in Taroudant

Morning

Though Taroudant resembles a more ramshackle Marrakech at first sight, it has more of an African than Arab identity. Unlike most other Moroccan cities, it was never under French occupation and so doesn’t possess a European quarter. Begin your exporation of the city on Place El Alaouyine, known by its Berber name as Place Assarag. Follow Avenue Mohammed V south of the square and head east into Souk Arabe, famed for its antique shops. At the souk’s edge, Boulangerie El Widad offers tasty Moroccan pastries. South of the main street, across Place El Nasr is Souk Berbère the main fruit and vegetables market. Return north up Avenue Bir Zaran and take a right on Avenue Moulay Rachid; sample the tajines at Chez Nada.

Afternoon

As you walk east on Avenue Moulay Rachid through an orange tree-lined path, you will come upon the triple-arched Saadian Gates at Bab El Kasbah. These lead to the walled kasbah quarter built by Saadian Sultan Moulay Ismail when it was the capital of the Saadian empire. The poorest part of town, it used to house the governor’s palace, now the very chic Hotel Palais Salam . Stop at the hotel for a snack and then make your way back to the Bab El Kasbah. Hop into one of the waiting calèches and for a small fee, do a circuit of the city walls. You can take the calèche back to Place El Alaouyine or your hotel.
A Year in Marrakech (1953)

Peter Mayne’s engaging journal of a city little changed since medieval times.
Adventures in Morocco (1874)

An account by German Gerhard Rohlfs, who travelled North Africa as a vagabond.
Agadir

Flattened by an earthquake in the 1960s, Agadir was rebuilt and is now a thriving charter tourist resort. The grim aspect of the town is compensated by its fantastic beaches.
Agdal Gardens

Dating back to the 12th century, the Agdal comprises several linked gardens including an orange grove, an olive plantation, vineyards and orchards of pomegranates and figs. The garden was enclosed within pisé walls in the 19th century. There is a large pool at the heart of the garden called the Tank of Health – in 1873, Sultan Mohammed IV tragically drowned in it when he went boating with his son.
Aït Benhaddou

This fortified village and cluster of kasbahs is the best preserved of all the kasbahs located in the Atlas Mountains. It is also the most famous, thanks to its popularity with visiting film producers; the kasbah has been immortalized in dozens of movies, including Lawrence of Arabia, The Last Temptation of Christ, The Mummy, Gladiator and Alexander. Part of the appeal lies in the location: the kasbah tumbles down a hillside beside the Ouarzazate River. It is still partially inhabited by ten families.
Aït Ourir

This is no more than a small roadside hamlet, 35 km (22 miles) outside Marrakech. However, the place comes to life each Friday when it hosts a weekly country market. If you choose to pass through on the right day, it makes for a diverting hour-long stop off.
Al Fassia

This frill-free restaurant has the best Moroccan food.
Al Fassia

This completely women-run Moroccan restaurant is unusual in that it offers à la carte choices rather than a set menu. The restaurant is not particularly stylish, lacks the panache of its many competitors and has a surly staff, but it compensates with its terrific food (see Al Fassia ).

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Restaurant price categories

For a full meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), plus taxes and extra charges.
- under Dh100
- Dh100–Dh200
- Dh200–Dh300
- Dh300–Dh400
- over Dh400