DK Travel : Marrakech : Jemaa El Fna and the Kasbah

The spiritual and historical heart of Marrakech, the Jemaa El Fna (pronounced as a rushed “j’maf na”) was laid out as a parade ground by the city’s founders (see the night market ). After the new rulers of Marrakech constructed a walled royal domain to the south – known as the kasbah – the open ground passed into the public domain. Sultans have come and gone and royal palaces have risen and fallen, but the Jemaa El Fna remains eternally vital. Used earlier to display the heads of executed criminals, it is still home to some extraordinary sights, like snake charmers and monkey trainers. By night, it transforms into a busy eating area.

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Argana

The terrace upstairs offers superb views over the main square and good Moroccan fare.
Aya’s

It may be hard to find (a door away from Le Tanjia), but worth seeking out for exotic clothing, as well as curiosities such as saucy “ethnic” postcards from the 1920s.
Badii Palace

It is difficult to reconcile these ruins with a palace once reputed to be among the world’s finest. An expanse of dusty ground within half-eroded walls, it retains some of its old elements, including sunken gardens and a dazzling piece of Moorish craftsmanship (see Badii Palace ).
Bahia Palace

Built in the 1890s by a powerful grand vizier (high official), the Bahia (“Brilliant”) is a minor palace complex approached by a long garden driveway. Inside, arrows direct visitors through a succession of courtyards and private rooms that were used by the vizier and his four wives. All the rooms are lavishly decorated with zellij tiling , sculpted stucco and carved cedarwood. The ruling sultan, Abdel Aziz, was so jealous of the riches of the Bahia that on the vizier’s death he had the palace stripped and looted.
Centre Artisanal

This vast government-run storehouse is just a few minutes’ walk from the Saadian Tombs. You’ll find an array of traditional Moroccan handicrafts, from carpets to pottery. The prices are fixed, so no haggling (see Centre Artisanal ).
Chez Chegrouni

Try the couscous here. Scribble your order on a paper napkin for the waiter; it returns at the end as your bill.
Cordonnerie Errafia

A small shoemaker who specializes in stylish loafers fashioned from raffia for men, and more decorative ones for women.
Dar Si Said Museum

Built by the brother of Ba Ahmed, builder of the Bahia Palace, this is an altogether more modest dwelling. However, what it sacrifices in scale, it makes up for in its impressive detailing – the house has some beautiful painted ceilings. It also serves as a museum for decorative arts; the exhibits on display include fine examples of carved wooden panels and painted Berber doors. The museum also includes some interestingly designed jewellery, carpets and metalwork.
Dinanderie

Displaying the work of Moulay Youssef, a famous Moroccan metalworker, this charming atelier is hidden away in an alley west of the rose garden across the Place des Ferblantiers.
Herman

If you want to try your hand at Moroccan cooking, this small place off the main square has authentic red earthenware tajines.

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Restaurant price categories

For a full meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), plus taxes and extra charges.
- under Dh100
- Dh100–Dh200
- Dh200–Dh300
- Dh300–Dh400
- over Dh400