traveldk.com

Marrakech is most easily accessible by air. The major airlines are national carrier, Royal Air Maroc and British Airways. Some of the budget carriers include Atlas Blue (Royal Air Maroc franchise), GB Airways (a British Airways franchise), EasyJet and Ryanair.

Since budget airlines began services to the city, it has become remarkably cheap to travel there. Fares from London Gatwick, London Stansted and Luton airports start from as low as £1 one way plus taxes. It’s possible to get a return fare for under £100 if you book ahead.

The formerly modest airport is currently undergoing massive expansion in order to accommodate the vast number of flights to the city. Located just 4 km (2 miles) from the centre of town, the drive takes no more than six or seven minutes.

Taxis gather in the car park outside the Arrivals terminal. Even though all taxis are metered, they are never actually switched on for the airport run. A ride which would otherwise cost only 30 Dh, can cost over 100 Dh.

The colonial-era train station receives daily services from Rabat, Casablanca and Tangier. With time on your hands (and money to spare), you can take the Eurostar from London to Paris, and then the daily TGV service to Algeciras in Spain. From Algeciras it’s a ferry ride to Tangier.

The national bus company, CTM, running locally and out of town, is the best. Supratours runs buses between Marrakech and Essaouira.

These shared taxis gather on Marché du Mellah and at the gare routière. They connect Marrakech with Casablanca, Fès and Essaouira. All the fares are fixed; just turn up and take a free seat.

Ferry companies that provide sea links between Spain and north Morocco include the Spanish Transmediterrànea and Moroccan Comarit. The ride from Algeciras in Spain to Tangier takes around two hours. Málaga and Almería also have ferry links to Tangier.

Numerous companies offer Morocco packages and most include stays in Marrakech. Best of Morocco (www.morocco-travel.com) and Morocco Made to Measure (www.clmleisure.co.uk) are UK- based; Marrakesh Voyage (www.morocco-travel-agency.com) is US-based; Yallah (www.yallahmor occo.com) is a reputable national operator.

Citizens of the European Union, Switzerland, the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand need a valid passport to visit Morocco, but no visa. To be able to stay in Morocco for three months, your passport should be valid for at least six months after your date of arrival. If your time exceeds the three months, then a visa will be required.

All visitors should take out an insurance policy before travelling to Marrakech. There are no reciprocal health agreements between Morocco and the EU countries, and if you fall ill you will have to pay the doctor’s bills. Theft is rare, but it cannot be ruled out.

Marrakech is warm all year round, although January and February see rainfall, with the temperatures dropping during the nights. The summer heat is at its most oppressive and fierce in July and August. The best times to visit are March to June and September to December. The peak tourist season is Easter and Christmas/New Year, so be sure to make reservations well ahead in order to secure a room if you plan to visit during these periods.

Take good, solid footwear as the alleys of the medina are often uneven. Clothes should be light but not revealing. Carry any necessary medication as your own particular brands may not be available locally. Everything else is easily obtainable in Marrakech, at the hypermarket Marjane, located on the Route de Casablanca just north of the New City.

Marrakech is not exactly a large city and as such, possesses proportionately few crowd-pulling sights and monuments. Most visitors pass their time sunning themselves on rooftop terraces with frequent forays into the souks to purchase souvenirs. Unless daytrips south to the mountains or to the coastal region of Essaouira are on your agenda, three or four days is time enough to spend here.

The electric current is 220V/50Hz. Moroccan sockets take European-style two-pin plugs, so bring an adaptor or buy one locally.

The main Islamic holidays are Eid El Fitr (14 Oct in 2007, 3 Oct in 2008, 20 Sept in 2009) and Eid El Adha (21 Dec in 2007, 10 Dec in 2008, 30 Nov in 2009). During this time, the city stays shut for two or three days so travelling is extremely difficult. In the holy month of Ramadan (begins 2 Sept in 2008, 22 Aug in 2009) many Muslims fast during the day; due to this, most restaurants and eateries are closed until sundown.

The Office National Marocain du Tourisme (OMNT) is a bit inconvenient to reach, located as it is in the New City, a taxi ride away from the medina. Moreover, the staff is not particularly well-informed, so don’t visit unless absolutely necessary. The staff at your hotel or riad will be of more help.

Wheelchair users will find Marrakech a tricky place to navigate, especially in the medina where the crowded roads tend to be narrow and in poor condition. Beyond the large hotels, very few buildings are disabled-friendly, though the better riads will do their best to accommodate.

Walking is usually the only way of getting around Marrakech, since vehicles are not allowed in the narrows alleys of the medina. Expect to get lost frequently, but it is no cause for worry; there is always someone on hand to point you in the right direction.

These horse-drawn cabs are located on Place Foucault between Jemaa El Fna and the Koutoubia, and by the Bahia Palace and Majorelle Gardens. There are posted fees for typical rides or you can negotiate an hourly rate (90 Dh is reasonable).

Beige municipal petits taxis are useful for trips to visit sights. Though they should be metered, you occasionally may have to prompt the driver to turn it on. Most trips cost under 10 Dh and slightly more at night with the 50 per cent surcharge. The cabs are allowed a maximum of 3 passengers at a time.

This double-decker, open-topped bus follows two circular routes, taking in the Koutoubia, Place des Ferblantiers (for the Badii and Bahia palaces), the Menara and Majorelle Gardens and Palmeraie. Services are every 30 minutes from 9am to 5pm. The tickets cost 130 Dh and are valid for 24 hours.

Bicycles, scooters and mopeds can be hired at various places, including Bazaar Salah Eddine (off Rue de Bab Agnaou) and along Rue Bani Marine. Hire scooters at Marrakech Motos in Guéliz. It is 100 Dh a day for a bicycle and 300 Dh for a scooter.

A Supratours bus is the easiest way to get to Essaouira from the city. They leave three times daily (currently 11am, 3:15pm and 7pm) from beside Marrakech’s train station on Avenue Hassan II in Guéliz. The ticket costs 60 Dh. It’s wise to book a seat in advance. Or opt for the cheaper, though slightly shabby CTM bus from the gare routière.

The Moroccan highway code is similar to that of France, so give way on the right. Speed limits are 40 or 60 kmh (25 or 37 mph) in city areas, 100 kmh (60 mph) on open roads and 120 kmh (74 mph) on motor-ways. The road signs are in Arabic and French. As you head south over the Atlas, a 4-wheel-drive is a must.

Seats on the buses heading south over the Tizi-n-Tichka and Tizi-n-Test are cheap, but you don’t get to stop en route. It is better to hire a car or a grand taxi.

Car hire is quite expensive with local agencies charging around 400 Dh a day. If you need a car only for the drive over the Atlas, a grand taxi may be cheaper.

Although a Muslim country, much of Morocco follows a Monday to Friday working week. Business hours for banks and post offices are from 8:30am–6pm. Shops start their day a bit later but stay open until 8pm or 9pm. On Fridays, the shops in the souks stay shut at lunchtime on Fridays, the Muslim day of prayer.

The Moroccan unit of currency is the dirham (Dh), divided into 100 centimes; but centimes are of little value. The most useful coins are the denominations of 1 Dh, 5 Dh and 10 Dh. These are really handy when travell­ing by taxis. Notes are in denominations of 20, 50, 100 and 200 dirhams. Always try to have a stock of 20 Dh and 50 Dh notes for small purchases as shops have trouble giving change.

Banks are clustered on Rue de Bab Agnaou in the medina and Place Abdel Moumen Ben Ali in the New City. Many of the banks have automatic cash dispensers (ATMs), most of which give cash on foreign-held accounts, as long as your debit or credit card is part of the Cirrus, Maestro or Visa networks. Cash is issued in dirhams only.

Easily available ATMs

Credit cards are accepted by most high-end hotels. However, this may not be the case for all restaurants in the city. Some places may decline your card in the hope that you will pay cash (thus saving the trouble of processing payment). Insist that you have no other means of payment and your card may just be accepted.

National operator Maroc-Télécom and rival Meditél both have arrangements with European networks that allow visitors to use mobiles in Morocco. Calls will, of course, be expensive. If you are visiting for a long period, buy a pre-paid SIM card from either of the operators, with shops just off Place du 16 Novembre in the New City.

For overseas calls, use one of the téléboutiques (phone offices) dotting the medina, identified by large blue-and-white signs with a telephone handset. The phones take 5 Dh and 10 Dh coins; get change from the person manning the desk. You can use the street card­phones with phonecards from post offices or tabacs. The international access code from Morocco is 00.

Try around Rue de Bab Agnaou just off Jemaa El Fna for cybercafés. Connections, however, can be very slow and it costs around 10 Dh per hour.

The main post office on Place du 16 Novembre in Guéliz opens from 8am–4:15pm Monday–Friday and from 8:30am– noon on Saturday. There is also a post office on the south side of Jemaa El Fna with the same opening times. For all international express parcel post, the Amana Bureau Guéliz is open from 8am–6:15pm MondaySaturday. Stamps are also available at the local tobacconists.

The main post office in Marrakech offers a free poste restante service. All mail should bear the first name and surname of the recipient, as well as the post office address. You will need some form of identification when collecting mail.

For Moroccans, hospitality is more than just tradition; it’s a matter of honour. Particularly if you travel out of Marrakech, people you meet may well invite you to their homes to drink tea or have a meal; a refusal could be seen as offensive. Never offer to pay for your meal. Carry a small gift along, like chocolates or cakes.

Islam is a state religion and the king of Morocco is the leader of the faithful. It is therefore considered to be in bad taste to criticise religion. Dress properly and refrain from overt signs of affection. During the fast of Ramadan do not eat, drink or smoke in public during the day.

Although Moroccan women do wear Western clothes, play it safe and dress conservatively. Headscarves are not necessary but neither women nor men should wear shorts. Women should also avoid mini skirts, baring their midriff or leaving their shoulders bare. Revealing bikini tops should be restricted to the hotel pool.

Marrakech is safe for solo female travellers, although you should expect to attract more than your fair share of attention wherever you go. However, avoid travelling down south on your own. People are more conservative south of the Atlas; a woman on her own will draw a lot of unwelcome curiosity.

You can take photographs almost anywhere in Morocco but avoid official buildings and anything that looks like it might be police or military. Before turning your camera on anyone, always ask for permission, since the more traditional Moroccans have an ingrained suspicion of any type of image. Occasionally, you may be asked for money by those you photograph, especially in tourist spots and in particular around Jemaa El Fna.

The stigma of nicotine hasn’t yet filtered through to Morocco, and everybody smokes everywhere, all the time. Get used to eating in smoke-filled restaurants and travelling on smoke-filled buses and in smoke-filled taxis.

Since the accession of Mohammed VI, attitudes towards the monarchy have relaxed. You may even hear Moroccans criticizing the king. Even so, the subject of the monarchy is still largely taboo. It is never a good idea to show any disrespect to the king’s image, which hangs in shops and in all public places.

You are expected to tip in restaurants and cafés, but not too great an amount. As a rule of thumb, leave about 10 Dh for each of the waiters who serve you – there will usually be four or five. You are also expected to tip porters (about 5–10 Dh) and the staff at your riad – leave 100 Dh on top of the bill.

You may notice that Moroccans give freely to the beggars hanging around the streets. One of the “Five Pillars of Islam” is charity, which is just as well given that there is no social security system to support those unable to work.

Bottled water is easily available so be sure to drink lots of it. If you don’t take in enough liquids, you are liable to end up feeling quite faint or possibly worse.

In spite of the strict clamp down ordered by the king himself, you may still have guides approach­ing you to offer their services. Always decline. With the help of this book, there’s nothing you can’t find yourself. Any discount a guide may obtain for you at shops will be negated by his own commission, which the shopkeeper will factor into the price he charges you.

Alcohol is frowned upon by Islam. Which is to say that Moroccans drink discreetly and out of the gaze of the general public. Alcohol is forbidden within the medina, given the holy status conferred on it courtesy of its seven shrines. However, hotels and restaurants with a predominantly foreign clientele are allowed some flexibility.

The country is one of the major producers of cannabis (known locally as kif), so drugs are freely available. Ignore all whispered offers of hash around Jemaa El Fna – secret police are present all around and buying or selling drugs, including hash, is illegal. A fine or, worst case, a prison sentence awaits anyone caught red-handed.

Hitchhikers dot the road between Marrakech and Ouarzazate. Should you stop, your new passenger will invariably attempt to either sell whatever is in his bag or cajole you into detouring off route to a “special” place, that ends up at some friend’s or family member’s restaurant or shop. It is best not to pick anyone up.

Even in the best of hotels, Moroccan plumbing is temperamental. Locals use water rather than toilet paper. As a consequence, the pipes may get blocked very quickly if you do use toilet paper. So use it sparingly – older, cheaper hotels even recommend that you dispose of it in the bin provided instead of flushing away the paper.

Displays of public affection, even walking with arms around each other, are taboo. You will not suffer any extreme form of punishment if caught, but this kind of behaviour is sure to cause offence.

Marrakech has, since the 1970s, been popular with the gay crowd. The city has even been marketed as a gay destination with several riads advertising themselves as gay-friendly. However, homosexuality is forbidden in Morocco and carries a prison sentence. Foreigners are rarely troubled by the police, but be discreet.

If you choose to navigate the hairpin turns over the great passes that breach the Atlas Mountains, you may reach your destination a nervous wreck. And you would also have missed out on the spectacular scenery that unfolds on the journey over the mountains, having spent the entire time with your eyes glued to the road.

No vaccinations are required for visitors entering Morocco, except for those coming from a country where yellow fever exists. However, vaccinations against hepatitis A and B and typhoid are advised. Be sure to pack a small first-aid kit. To prevent sunstroke wear a hat, use a sunblock with a high UV-protection factor and drink lots of water.

Violence is rare, though instances of bag snatching and other such opportunistic crimes have been on the rise with the influx of rich foreigners. Be particularly careful when walking through a quiet medina late in the evening. Pickpockets are also common in the souks and on Jemaa El Fna, so be vigilant.

Drink bottled mineral water and avoid salads and fruit juice. Don’t add ice to your drinks. Approach street food with caution, though the food at the stalls on Jemaa El Fna is usually safe.

In the case of an emergency don’t wait for an ambulance: flag a taxi and go to the Polyclinique du Sud in the New City, a private hospital with the best treatment. At all costs, avoid the under-funded public hospitals.

Pharmacies are denoted by a green crescent sign and have a well-informed staff, who often speak English. Medicines obtained only on prescription in Europe are available over the counter here.

If the pharmacist cannot help, there are several good doctors and dentists with well-equipped surgeries. Most speak French, but a handful also converse in English. Your hotel or riad should have contact details. Otherwise, there is always the Polyclinique du Sud.

Morocco doesn’t have particularly harmful insects, but scorpions and snakes are common in the countryside. If you are somewhere in the Atlas Mountains, always check your clothing before getting dressed. Carry some repellent to combat the abundant mosquitoes in desert oasis areas.

Being careful about what you eat should prevent any serious illness, but in case of persistent diarrhoea, consult a doctor without delay. Stray dogs may carry rabies and if you are bitten, seek medical attention immediately.

In case of problems, your first port of call should be the tourist police (Brigade Touristique; 024 38 46 01), on the north side of Jemaa El Fna. The main police station is on Rue Oued El Makhazine near Jnane El Harti in the New City.

Haggling is de rigueur in the souks. If you don’t haggle, you may pay massively over the odds. It all revolves around the considerable difference between the price offered by the seller and the price that he will actually accept if pushed. Shop around and get a few different quotes on identical items before the game begins in earnest.

You will invariably be offered tea as part of the bargaining process. Accepting places you under no obligation to buy. It does, however, allow the seller more time to draw your attention to other potential sales. If you aren’t that interested in what he has to offer in the first place, then definitely decline the tea.

The sales pitches of the souk traders are nothing if not amusing. But if you are not interested then just walk on, don’t respond and don’t catch anybody’s eye. No seller is going to waste time on somebody who is not going to purchase goods.

A souk is a seductive place with items that may tempt you into a purchase. But stop to consider before you buy: how well will a brass platter the size of a tractor wheel fit with your furniture at home? And would you actually dare to wear the canary yellow slippers and take a stroll down a high street at home?

If you want a break from the monotony of the always busy souks and wish to purchase something more unique but distinctly Moroccan, visit some of the shops that line the medina, such as Atelier Moro, Kif Kif and Kulchi , or Scènes du Lin up in the New City. All these places are run by young designers with a very unique take on local crafts and traditions.

There are essentially two types of restaurants in Marrakech: those that offer Moroccan and non-Moroccan food. The Moroccan restaurants either feature an à la carte or set menu. The set menu meal is something you do once and never repeat again. Your next evening’s meal could probably be Moroccan à la carte, and if you’re around a third night, you may want to dine at one of the restaurants serving excellent international cuisine.

The set meal is something of an endurance test, with more courses of food brought to the table than could ever conceivably be eaten. After a while, no matter how beautiful the surroundings and how exquisite the dishes, the overall effect is nauseating – not to mention criminally wasteful.

Many restaurants open only for dinner, typically from around 7:30pm until 10:30 or 11pm. You may find it difficult to scout a place for lunch away from Jemaa El Fna or the New City. Reservations are advisable for popular restaurants .

Most restaurants frequented by Western tourists have a license to serve alcohol. The Moroccan rosé wines are perhaps the best of the lot. In Ramadan some restaurants that normally serve alcohol stop selling it.

Marrakech has an abundance of stylish accommodation, many of which are either riads or maisons d’hôtes, a term that roughly translates to mean “boutique hotels”. Some of these places are so stunning, you may find it hard to drag yourself into the throng of the medina. However, for those who find comfort in standard international hotels, there are plenty of those too.

A riad is a house in the medina with a courtyard. Uniquely Moroccan, they can range from a cosy four rooms to close to 20, from humble to ultra-stylish. Nearly all are privately-owned guesthouses and the levels of service and luxury tend to reflect the personalities – and financial resources – of their owners.

All the riads are in the medina, which is where most visitors spend most of their time. The closer you are to Jemaa El Fna, the central whirlpool of Marrakech, the better. The big international hotels are in Hivernage, between the medina and the airport – a taxi ride away from all the action. Anyone seeking to get away from it all might consider retreating to a luxury hideaway in the Palmeraie palm grove, to the north of the medina.

The Moroccan government has devised an official classification for hotels, with a one- to five-star grading system. This system, however, is not applied to riads. Listed hotels are often ambitiously graded and it is not recommended that you venture below three stars unless money dictates otherwise.

By law, prices for accommodation must be shown in the reception area as well as in rooms. Be aware, however, that these prices rarely include tax and they do not include breakfast. Again, riads and maisons d’hôtes are exempted from this rule.

Negotiating a lower price for a hotel room is common – and fruitful. At slack times, it is possible to obtain reductions of up to 30 per cent. It is a waste of time, however, during high season or with most riads.

High season is Christmas and New Year and the weeks around Easter. At such times, prices of rooms can go up by as much as 25 per cent and that’s if you can find one – you really need to have something booked months in advance. September and October are generally also busy as the worst of the summer heat is over. January and February are low seasons, after the New Year has died down.

Most accommodation in the medina is not wheelchair accessible, as Moroccan houses are built with lots of steps. The international hotels in Hivernage are the best bets, as many of them are disabled-friendly.

Riads are not great places to holiday with kids. Being essentially small, former family homes with a central courtyard, noise carries to all rooms. Unless your children are remarkably quiet, you are liable to disturb other guests.