Maui is known as the “valley isle”, and most of its population nestles in the low-lying isthmus between the lush western mountains and the dustier slopes of Haleakalā to the east. Skirting the coast are some of the world’s finest beaches, from the popular resorts on the southwestern fringe to the wilder surfing beaches on the north and eastern shores. Maui’s administrative group also includes the islands of Moloka’i and Lana’i with more magnificent scenery and even greater remoteness.
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Morning
Spend some time away from the sand and surf by heading up the Haleakalā Highway (Route 37) to the coolness of Upcountry Maui. At ’Ulupalakua Ranch you’ll find the Tedeschi Winery. Tours of the winery are free, and you can taste the full range of products in the restored cottage of King David Kalākaua.
Retrace your path back along Route 37 to visit Makawao, once a cowboy town and now a shopper’s haven. There are tony boutiques and art galleries housed in western-style buildings. Pick up some lunch at Rodeo General Store’s deli or sit down at Duncan’s Coffee Co., both on Baldwin Ave., the town’s “main drag.”
Afternoon
Continue down Baldwin Avenue to the Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center. Inside and outside, works by local artists are created, displayed, and sold. Traveling right to the end of Baldwin Avenue will take you to Pā’ia for great people watching – and more shopping. Once a plantation town, then a hippie haven, and now a windsurfing mecca, Pā’ia offers an adventure in browsing for unique clothing at Jagger’s (see Jaggers), work by local artists at Maui Hands, and antiques at Pā’ia Trading Company (see Pā’ia Trading Company).
For a late afternoon spectacle, the waters off Ho’okipa Beach are filled with the colorful sails of windsurfers and kite boarders. Finally, end your day with a fresh fish dinner at Mama’s Fish House (see Mama’s Fish House).
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Early Morning
Lahaina is hot virtually year round, so it’s best to start early in the day. Most historical spots are within a block or two of Front Street, so begin your walking tour at the south end in Malu’ulu’olele Park (see Moku’ula), and head roughly north, in the direction of the Kā’anapali Beach (see Kā’anapali Beach).
The first sites you’ll encounter are Banyan Tree Park, the old Lahaina Courthouse, and Lahaina Harbor (see Front Street, Lahainaand; Lahaina Courthouse see also; Lahaina Harbor). Just a block farther is the BaldwinHouse (see Baldwin House), the two-story, New England-style home of a Protestant missionary. The building also served as Baldwin’s medical office, and the early dental equipment on display makes you feel lucky to live in this age of effective anesthetics!
Continue your stroll to the Wo Hing Temple where the influence of Chinese immigrants to Maui can be seen, along with early movies made by American inventor Thomas Edison.
Late Morning
Take a break for lunch or a cool libation at any of Front Street’s oceanfront restaurants. For a quick bite, Cheeseburger in Paradise is immensely popular. Portions are big, prices small, and the ocean view, especially from upstairs, is glorious.
When you’re re-energized, there are plenty of trendy boutiques, art galleries, and souvenir shops all along Front Street to attract your vacation money (see Shopping).
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Morning
Take a leisurely drive – there’s no other way on Moloka’i – to the spectacular Hālawa Valley on the island’s far eastern end.
Begin in Kaunakakai with a breakfast of sweet bread from Kanemitsu Bakery (see Kanemitsu Bakery). Stock up in town with snacks and drinks for a picnic.
From Kaunakakai, take Route 450 heading east. Be sure to notice all the ancient fishponds still intact along the coastline. About 11 miles from Kaunakakai you’ll see, in quick succession, St.Joseph’s and then Our Lady of Sorrows (see Our Lady of Sorrows Church)– both built by Father Damien in the late 1800s. Step inside to experience the history.
The road to Hālawa is winding, narrow, and extraordinarily scenic. Take your time to enjoy it – pull over, stop for a picnic or a snack, or to snap some photos, and immerse yourself in the glorious surroundings and clean, fresh air.
Afternoon
Hālawa Valley is absolutely perfect: a high waterfall cascades into the stream that winds through the valley and eventually reaches the ocean. The base of the valley is a great place for a picnic if you haven’t already eaten, or to kick back and feast on the views.
Once you’ve luxuriated in the tranquillity of the valley, retrace your journey back to Kaunakakai in time for an afternoon swim and dinner at the Oceanfront Dining Room (see Oceanfront Dining Room).
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Vietnamese “burritos,” whole steamed fish, fried lobster, rice bowl, and other specialties have all found their way into the hearts – and bellies – of locals. Unusually for Maui, the café stays open right through from lunch to dinner.
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Operating one of the most popular ethnic restaurants on Maui, owner Jennifer Nguyen claims to be too busy to put up a sign! Though this makes the place rather difficult to locate, the food is great and inexpensive (see A Saigon Café).
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Maui’s largest culinary festival is held each year on the Friday and Saturday closest to September 15th. Dozens of island restaurants and hotels put their best culinary creations forward while many of Hawai’i’s finest modern musicians provide the entertainment.
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Linda Little can find you a place to stay for as little as $55 a night. She’s got vacation rentals all over Maui and on some other islands too, and can also help with rental cars.
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Soaring above the island will give you a unique perspective of Maui and a chance to observe its yet-untouched natural areas. Take flight in a helicopter, paraglider, hang glider, or a small, fixedwing aircraft.
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So-called because of its proximity to a long-gone small airport. The beach has been upgraded in recent years, and now has picnic tables and restroom facilities.
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This is small-town U.S.A., Moloka’i style. On Saturdays, take a leisurely look at the farmers’ market, which is also part swap meet, part social gathering.
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Restaurant price categories
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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