Templo Mayor
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In Aztec times the Templo Mayor stood in a sacred walled compound in the center of Tenochtitlán (present day Mexico City) before Cortés destroyed it. In 1978 a massive round carved stone was uncovered accidentally near Zócalo that led to a major archeological project, uncovering the ruins of the magnificent double pyramid complex.
Early morning (or a cloudy day) is the best time to visit the ruins, before the sun’s glare makes it difficult to see the details of sculptures, murals, and construction. Bypass the street food surrounding Templo Mayor and head to one of the hotels along the south side of Zócalo, or head farther south along Francisco I. Madero to #29 and stop in at Los Bisquets Obregón. The 20 minute video in the museum, near the entrance, is excellent Templo Mayor was a symbolic representation of an Aztec sacred mythical place, Coatepec or “the Hill of the Serpent”
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1. Museo del Templo Mayor
This museum designed by Mexican architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez displays many of the artifacts discovered during the excavation of the temple ruins, including the original monolith of Coyolxauhqui.
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2. Lacustrine Fountain
2. Lacustrine FountainAn excellent fountain-cum-map is located in the plaza. The base of the fountain forms a bas-relief map of ancient Tenochtitlán surrounded by the lake, canals, irrigation ditches, and small islands. This provides a contextual overview of the city that surrounded Templo Mayor before the Spanish conquest.
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3. Monolith of Coyolxauhqui
3. Monolith of CoyolxauhquiThis magnificent circular carved stone depicts the dismembered Coyolxauhqui, goddess of the moon.
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4. Wall of Skulls
4. Wall of SkullsDuring the Aztec times skulls of sacrificed prisoners were mounted on wooden stakes forming a wall of skulls, or a Tzompantli. The Wall of Skulls found in the museum is a replica of the original. In the ruins, there is also a wall of stucco covered human skulls that forms a side wall of the Tzompantli Altar.
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5. Chacmool Carving
5. Chacmool CarvingThis polychrome sculpted figure in a reclining pose cradles a bowl on its belly which was used to hold peaceful offerings to Tláloc.
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6. Eagle Knights
6. Eagle KnightsTwo of these remarkable life-size clay sculptures, each comprising five interlocking parts, were discovered in the House of the Eagles near the temple. One of them is on display in the museum. The Eagle Knights were elite Aztec warriors who dressed as birds of prey.
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7. Templo Mayor Construction Stages
7. Templo Mayor Construction StagesThe Templo Mayor was enlarged seven times as the stature and prosperity of the Aztecs increased. These enlargements, referred to as construction stages, can be seen on a walk through the ruins.
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8. Temple of Tláloc
The Aztecs made peaceful offerings to the Chacmool sculpture in the Temple of Tláloc, god of rain, to ensure successful harvests, fertility, and abundance.
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9. Serpent Head Sculptures
9. Serpent Head SculpturesIntricately carved and brightly painted stone serpent heads are seen to guard the base of the main staircase of this great Aztec temple.
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10. Tenochtitlán Ceremonial Center
This large scale model of Templo Mayor surrounded by other buildings in the ceremonial center of Tenochtitlán creates a powerful visual contrast to the Spanish colonial buildings standing in the city center. The imposing architecture of the temple and the city of Tenochtitlán were so impressive that the early Spanish colonizers compared it to the great cities of Europe.
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