DK Travel : Miami : Coral Gables and Coconut Grove

Coral Gables and Coconut Grove, taken together, constitute one of the most upscale neighborhoods in Greater Miami. The former is actually a separate city, while the latter is a district of Miami, its oldest, and the site of the Miami City Hall. Coral Gables was one of the nation’s first “planned” cities and is consistently posh from end to end. Coconut Grove is a more variegated mosaic, historically the focus of Miami’s intellectual, bohemian community but also incorporating the blighted “Black Grove”, where the descendants of Bahamian workers often live in real squalor.

For more about George Merrick’s fabulous buildings in Coral Gables See Merrick’s Coral Gables Fantasies

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A Tour of CoconutGrove Village

Morning

This walk is designed for Friday–Monday, because it begins with a tour of the Barnacle State Historic Site. Try to get there for the 10am tour, and notice the distinctive roof, which gives the house its name.

As you exit, turn left and go down to the corner of Devon Road to enjoy the Mission-style Plymouth Congregational Church , built in 1916. If they’re open, pop into the back gardens.

Now walk back along Main Highway several blocks to 3500, the Coconut Grove Playhouse , a handsome Mediterranean-Revival building that dominates the corner at Charles Avenue. Continue along Main Highway to the next street, then stop for lunch and some top-notch people-watching at the every-busy Green Street Café .

Afternoon

After lunch, walk up Commodore Plaza to visit 3168, the Midori Gallery . Afterwards, continue on to Grand Avenue and turn right; go down a couple of blocks to the major intersection and cross the street into the shopping mecca CocoWalk.

On the next block, Rice Street, look up to admire the fanciful façade of The Streets of Mayfair mall (see Hibiscus Hill, Out of Africa). To finish off your tour, visit Borders on the corner of Grand Avenue and Mary Street for a drink and maybe a book on Grove history.

Exhibit, Midori Gallery
Anokha Fine Indian Cuisine

Tandoori a specialty, and side dishes featuring homemade paneer cheese.
Baleen

Fresh oysters shucked at your table, the best lobster bisque on Biscayne Bay, oaksmoked diver scallops, and Asian bouillabaisse are some of the treats.
Barnacle State Historic Site

Hidden from the highway by a tropical hardwood hammock (mound), this is Dade County’s oldest home. It was designed and built in 1891 by Commodore Ralph Munroe, who made his living as a boat builder and a wrecker (salvager). In fact, wood from shipwrecks was used to build the house, and it was inventively laid out to allow the circulation of air, all-important in those days before air-conditioning. Rooms are stuffed with old family heirlooms, old tools, and wonderful early appliances.
Barnacle State Historic Site

This unusual house, lived in by the descendants of its original builder until 1973, is the area’s oldest, built in 1891 (see Barnacle State Historic Site).
Biltmore Hotel

George Merrick was one of the visionaries who made Florida into what it is; this lavish hotel stands as a monument to his taste and grand ideas. Herculean pillars line the grand lobby, and from the terrace you can survey the largest hotel swimming pool in the country. JohnnyWeismuller, the first movie Tarzan, used to teach swimming here, and the likes of Al Capone, Judy Garland, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor came in its heyday. Weekly tours of the hotel and grounds depart from the front desk (see Biltmore Hotel & Biltmore Hotel).
Biltmore Hotel

Inimitably beautiful and grand, this is one of the world’s most gorgeous hotels, opened in 1926.
Book and Books

One of Greater Miami’s best bookstores, set amid graceful arcades.
Book and Books

Just a block off the Miracle Mile is this wonderful bookshop specializing in the arts and literature, as well as books on Florida. There’s a great café, frequent poetry readings, and book signings. Upstairs you’ll find a rare books room, which is also a photo gallery.
Borders

Not just a delightfully complete bookstore, but also a snack and coffee bar, and just a great place to hang out.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under $20
- $20–$40
- $40–$55
- $55–$80
- over $80