The areas north of Miami Beach and Downtown are an irreconcilable juxtaposition of urban sprawl and urban chic, of downtrodden ethnic and high-flying elite. Little is actually scenic, although the beaches are among the area’s greatest. Indeed, much of northern Miami has the reputation of a slum. There’s local color to be discovered, but the vibes can be less than welcoming, and you should be careful. Still, some of Greater Miami’s most scintillating sights, including one of the oldest buildings in the Americas, and fine dining can also be found here.
Showpiece, Mynaya shop
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Morning
Drive north from central Miami on Highway 1 (also called Biscayne Blvd). The road is lined with shops – stop off at any that catch your eye. Turn left on NE 163rd St, then right onto W Dixie Hwy (also NE 22nd Ave). The Ancient Spanish Monastery is on the right after the canal.
You may well feel a sense of awe as you walk around this beautiful little piece of medieval Europe on US soil. Even European visitors, who have visited many such buildings in their homeland, might still marvel at the dedication of Hearst to put it here.
For the best route through the grounds, start at the gift shop/museum, exit to the patio, through the gardens, cloisters, interior rooms, culminating with the chapel, and back through the gift shop.
Among the notable sights are an 800-year-old birdbath, a life-size statue of the Spanish king Alphonso VII (the monastery was constructed to commemorate one of his victories over the Moors), and two of only three known surviving round stained-glass windows from the 12th century.
Afternoon
In keeping with the Spanish-inspired theme, eat at nearby Paquito’s Mexican Restaurant and take a detour along NE 2nd Ave through colorful Little Haiti on your way back.
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This is the oldest Europeantradition building in the Western Hemisphere, originally built in 1133–41 near Segovia, Spain. In 1925, William Randolph Hearst bought the magnificent cloisters, had them dismantled stone by stone, and sent to the US. After many trials and tribulations, the stones were reassembled here in the early 1950s for $1.5 million. Call before visiting on weekends as the monastery will close for events such as weddings.
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A jaunty little place that specializes in brick-oven pizza, choice panini, salads, and desserts. Homemade cannoli and other goodies for dessert.
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Created around a natural limestone bridge formation, this location used to be part of an important Native American trail. A museum/nature center contains artifacts left by those peoples. Naturalists will be your guides as they point out native birds, animals, insects, and trees.
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Impressive mineral/nature store, with dinosaur fossils, natural and carved semiprecious gemstones, insects, shells, butterflies, skulls, animal mounts, etc.
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The Barrier islands north of Miami Beach are occupied mainly by posh residential areas, and this is the poshest. Known for its flashy hotels and one of the swankiest malls anywhere, Bal Harbour is said to have more millionaires per capita than any other city in the US. Bal Harbour Shops – note the British spelling – is a determinedly snooty place in a tropical setting, whose tone is set by the wealthy grandes dames and the security staff in neo-colonial uniforms and pith helmets. Elsewhere along 96th Street, you’ll find galleries, gourmet shops, and a swarm of plastic surgery studios.
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International fusion artistry at its finest. The Indian-influenced dishes include “cowboy” steak with tamarind and chili and lobster-crab cakes with fruit chutney. Hazelnut “Kit-Kat” bars make an unusual finish.
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It started out as a pineapple grove, but from the 1920s this zone was being called Decorators’ Row because of the design stores that had moved in. For a while in the ’80s, due to high crime, the area fell on hard times, but things are picking up again, and top-end design, furniture, and fixture shops once again rule. Photographers and artists have been moving here, too, to escape the high rents of South Beach.
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If you want luck or for your lover to behave, there are ways… and this is the place to find them: Haitian powders, potions, and iconographic figures abound, some of them very sexually graphic.
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All sorts of antiques, art, collectibles, and various found objects. The upbeat, charming proprietor, Donna Ashby, is something of a local celebrity. Don’t miss her orchid garden and the great day spa upstairs (see Jacqué, Inc.).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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