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HayleyS's Miami and Key West guide

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by hayleyS.

The best that Southern Florida has to offer taking in the highlights of Miami, Fort Lauderdale and the Keys

SoBe and the Deco District

Posh high-life and decadent lowlife meet and the fun never stops in the vibrant beach-and-nightclub community of South Beach – otherwise known as SoBe (see SoBe Life). The world-famous Deco District (see Deco District), an essential element of Miami Beach, is beautifully preserved in hundreds of colorful, inspired buildings.

Liquid Night Club
Cactus Bar and Grill
Cavalier Hotel, Deco District
Park Central Hotel
Delano Hotel

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SoBe Life

Ever since Miami Vice (see Miami Beach and Key Biscayne) drew attention to this fun-zone, hedonists have flocked for the beaches and nightlife.

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Deco District

The whimsical architecture on South Beach ultimately traces its roots back to 1920s Paris (see The Story of Tropical Deco), but it underwent fruitful, exotic influences along the way and blossomed into Florida’s own Tropical Deco.

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Delano

A very trippy and ultra-luxurious Post-Modern wonder. The original, rather austere white exterior has been restored without any fuss. But inside, the divine madness of Philippe Starke, along with hilarious Dali- and Gaudi inspired designs have been given room to play. The very chi-chi and daring Blue Door restaurant is co-owned by Madonna.

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A Walk Through the Deco District
Morning

From the southern end of the District on Ocean Drive, at 6th Street, head northward, checking out not just the façades but also as many of the hotel interiors as you can. Many have unique design elements in the lobbies, bars, and gardens.

Between the Leslie and the Cardozo is the wonderful Carlyle, currently undergoing a major restoration.

Turn left after the Cavalier, and go to the next street over, Collins Avenue. Turn right on Collins and check out Hoffman’s Cafeteria at 1450, built in curved Nautical style in 1939 by Henry Hohauser. Stop here for lunch.

Mid-afternoon

A little farther on, you’ll find the St. Moritz Hotel, which features a cut coral façade and neon.

At 1685, you can’t miss the all-white Delano, with its landmark winged tower. The outlandish post-modern interiors are by Philippe Starke, and contain original Dali and Gaudi furniture.

Next stop is the Ritz Plaza, with another fantasy tower in glass block. When you get to 21st St, turn left; on the next corner you will encounter the Abbey Hotel, with its marvelous salamander motif and Flash Gordon-style towers.

Head back to Collins Ave, and at 1775 you’ll find The Raleigh Hotel – it’s a beautiful location for drinks.

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Raleigh

On the pricey side, to be sure, but nothing less than fabulous. The décor has endless style and panache, often with period pieces. The eyepopping swimming pool is immortalized in several Esther Williams movies.

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Lowe Art Museum

Greater Miami’s finest art museum boasts solid collections of ancient and modern world art.

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Ocean Drive

The epitome of the “American Riviera.” Sit in a café, or cruise up and down the strip in a convertible, on skates, or simply on foot. And, of course, if you’ve got it – the buff bod, golden tan, and all – Ocean Drive is the place to show it off.

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News Café

The café-restaurant at 800 Ocean Drive continues to be action central for So-Be social life. Sit and read the morning paper, available in several languages, over a full breakfast – or just watch the action.

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Mynt

Go – even if it’s just to sample a tipple or two from the cocktail menu. This stylish, sophisticated nightspot is for a hip South Beach crowd in the know.

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Lincoln Road Mall

Second only to Ocean Drive in its star-quality appeal. Lined with sculpture-fountains and plants, this pedestrian area with its outdoor eateries is always lively. Score, at No. 727, is very good after dark (see Lincoln Road Markets).

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Lincoln Theater

The Lincoln is home to the New World Symphony, which is made up of music college graduates. The young virtuosos perform an incredible mix of gospel, Piazzolla tango, symphonies, and chamber works.

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Bal Harbour

The Barrier islands north of Miami Beach are occupied mainly by posh residential areas, and this is the poshest. Known for its flashy hotels and one of the swankiest malls anywhere, Bal Harbour is said to have more millionaires per capita than any other city in the US. Bal Harbour Shops – note the British spelling – is a determinedly snooty place in a tropical setting, whose tone is set by the wealthy grandes dames and the security staff in neo-colonial uniforms and pith helmets. Elsewhere along 96th Street, you’ll find galleries, gourmet shops, and a swarm of plastic surgery studios.

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Boca Raton

Newly expanded, Boca’s premier mall just took a quantum leap into even greater luxury. It now has a Nordstrom to go with its Saks, Cartier, Tiffany, Lord & Taylor, Bloomie’s, and Williams-Sonoma. Set amid exotic foliage, skylights, handglazed tiles, and sculptural accents, there’s also a fancy cuisine court – no fast-food chain joints here! If you venture into downtown Boca, be sure to stroll through pastel-pink Mizner Park, where you’ll also find more chic shopping options.

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Aventura Mall

Lord & Taylor, Bloomingdale’s, Burdines, and Macy’s are the upscale anchors, in addition to specialty stores including Abercrombie & Fitch, Ann Taylor, Guess?, J. Crew, FAO Schwarz, Fossil, and Clinique. Art galleries, some excellent restaurants, an international food court, and a 24-screen cineplex complete the picture.

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Gold Coast Highway A1A

Route A1A hugs the sands of the Gold Coast, wending through Florida’s wealthiest and most beautiful areas.

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Las Olas Boulevard and the Galleria

Fort Lauderdale’s high-end shopping is spread between its main street downtown and a mall just near the beach. Las Olas’ 100-plus boutiques are unique, all mixed with some really good restaurants. The Galleria, East Sunrise Blvd at A1A, offers Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.

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Le Café de Paris, Fort Lauderdale

This family-owned French restaurant has been around for more than 30 years, offering good food and good value. The escargot appetizer is especially delicious.

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The Everglades

Taking up most of South Florida, the Everglades is a vast sea of swamp and sawgrass, dotted with subtropical forests and populated with prolific wildlife. It is also home to Native American Seminoles and Miccosukees ( see Top 10 Ethnic Attractions).

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The Everglades, across Alligator Alley (I-75)

This is probably the easiest, fastest route across the Everglades: an Interstate toll-road with two lanes of traffic in each direction. It keeps you at arm’s length from the swampy, teeming mass of it all, but there are several great stops along the way, as you pass through Big Cypress National Preserve and just to the north of Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve.

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Seven Mile Bridge
At the heart of any floridean road trip, the seven mile bridge linking the Florida Mainland and Key West is a stunning journey, flanked either side by the sea for the full seven miles.
Key West

This mythic isle lives up to its reputation as the most outlandishly free spot in the US. A frothy mix of maritime traditions and laid-back style.

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Key West Old Town

Key West has the largest collection of 19thcentury structures in the US. About 4,000 buildings, mostly houses, embody the distinctive local style. Many architectural features take their cues from elements used on ships, such as roof hatches to allow air circulation. One unique innovation is the “eyebrow” house, with secondfloor windows hidden under a front porch roof overhang, providing shade in the unremitting heat.

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Duval Street

Running from the Gulf of Mexico at the north end to the Atlantic Ocean in the south, the main street of Old Town is the place to do the “Duval Crawl.” This is the arduous task of strolling the street and stopping in at all of the 100 or so bars, pubs, and clubs that line Duval and its neighboring roads.

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Sloppy Joe’s

You can get a full meal as well as just a drink at this prominently situated and always noisy bar. It’s heavy on Hemingway memorabilia, since he used to hang out here as well as at the original Sloppy Joe’s (see Captain Tony’s Saloon).

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Alice’s at La-Te-Da, Key West

Alice Weingarten creates culinary magic, with her signature fusion cuisine, all set in a romantic garden atmosphere.

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Conch Tour Train

Key West’s train tour is a must-do for first-time visitors. It gives an invaluable overview of the place and all sorts of insights into its history and culture.

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Mallory Square, Key West

Especially at sunset, this huge square at the Gulf end of Duval Street is a gathering place for all sorts of locals and visitors. Street performers keep it lively, and there are plenty of vendors of food and souvenirs (see Mallory Square).

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Mallory Square, Key West, at sunset

Although you will most likely be there with a hoard of other sunset-viewers, the beauty of this moment and the general air of merriment will provide you with a memorable experience. Watch a tall ship sail in front of the huge setting sun, blazing orangy-pink at the Gulf’s edge. True romantics should keep an eye out for the beguiling green flash that’s said to occur just before the sun disappears below the horizon – if you catch it, it means good luck in love (see Mallory Square).

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