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A few pieces in an otherwise modest collection make this a worthwhile stop. The best is the Trivulzio Cup (see Civico Museo Archeologico, Milan). A boulder from the Val Camonica (see Val Calmonica Villages), which is adorned with 4,800-year-old Bronze Age carvings, lies in the entrance court. There’s also a stunning silver platter from the mid-4th century that displays in relief the deities of earth, sky, water and the zodiac – a resounding statement of faith in the old gods at a time of encroaching Christianity. In the 15th-century cloisters, half-demolished by bombs during World War II, are a pair of brick towers from the bastions of the Imperial-era city.

Among the top pieces in this small archaeological collection, which traces Lombard and neighbouring civilizations from prehistory to the end of the Roman era, is the Trivulzio Cup. This precious 4th-century glass cup has a delicate glass netting hovering just above the chalice surface on thin stilts of glass, along with a raised inscription that reads “Drink to Enjoy Long Life”.

Milan’s gallery of modern art is among the best in Italy. The works concentrate on Italian artists of the 20th century, including De Chirico, Modigliani and Boccioni. The collection is housed in the Palazzo Reale. The museum underwent restoration in 2004. Call ahead to confirm opening hours.

Rock climb in the mountains ringing the lake’s southeastern end.

A tiny hotel perfectly sited between the Brera, Castello and Duomo. It does most of its business with workmen, but tourists are welcome as long as they don’t mind rooms with box showers, sink and bidet (but no toilet), and paying cash in advance. Ask to see several rooms as some are much nicer than others.

Italy’s silk capital was founded by the Romans and has a spectacular cathedral (see Duomo, Como), a handful of modest museums, lots of boutiques and two ancient churches.

The exterior of Como’s cathedral, begun in the late 14th century, is a festival of statues and basreliefs. Inside are Renaissance altar-pieces and tapestries (see Duomo, Como).

A modern lakeside retreat with a pool and tennis courts.

Fancy hearing a string quartet composed entirely of Stradivarius instruments? Cremona’s Teatro Ponchielli is about the only place in the world where this happens regularly.