Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.
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A large hotel with modern, comfortable bedrooms, four conference rooms, and secretarial services. Tourists will appreciate that weekend rates are a mere 40 per cent of the midweek prices.
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It’s debatable whether “Papa” actually drank atop the plush benches of this curious little bar tucked away near the port, but the cocktails are named after his books.
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The friendliest family-run hotel in town happens to sit right on the lakeside piazza, with lovely views from charming rooms fitted with antiques.
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Satisfying foodies for over a century with local cuisine and a choice of settings: around a 16th-century courtyard fountain or by the fireplace inside.
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The great travel writer H V Morton (see A Traveller in Italy) likened Milan’s cathedral to a forest within the city, its thickets of columns and high vaulted ceilings providing the citizens with a spot of shade (see Milan’s Duomo).
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Como’s statue-studded cathedral is devoted to local patron and protector Sant’Abbondio, whose life is played out in the giant gilt altarpiece of 1509–14. Other Renaissance tapestries and paintings – including one by Leonardo’s protégé Bernardino Luini – grace the interior.
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Como’s statue-clad cathedral was begun in 1396, but not capped with its Juvara-designed dome until 1740. On the façade, the pilasters are lined with saints and the main door is flanked by the seated figures of two local ancient scholars, Pliny the Elder and his nephew Pliny the Younger. The interior preserves an intricately carved and painted wooden altarpiece of 1492 and nine fabulous 16th-century tapestries, produced in Flemish, Florentine and Ferrarese workshops.
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The contemporary rooms may be simple and spare, but they are comfortable. Best of all, those facing the pedestrianized street have a view (or rather, half a view) of the Duomo façade half a block away. Its restaurant and pizzeria are reasonable.
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Milan’s cathedral is the third-largest church in the world and a testament to Milan-ese persistence. Despite construction that lasted more than 400 years (1386–1813), it managed to remain uncompromisingly faithful to the original Gothic design, a beautiful hulk of stone turrets, statues and flying buttresses (see Milan’s Duomo).
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A restaurant, Naviglio-front tavern, part-time live music venue and proud owner of a miniscule canal that was, in times gone by, used by Milanese washerwomen.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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