DK Travel : Milan and the Lakes

Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.

Hotel de la Ville

It’s near the Duomo, and enjoys the facilities of any upmarket hotel, but at prices 20 to 40 per cent lower than the competition. The rooms are adorned with silk and 18th-century-style antiques.
Hotel Du Lac et Du Park, Riva del Garda

A luxurious retreat, with a fitness and beauty centre, a small park of tiny lakes, pools, tennis courts and mini-golf, and a gorgeous private sandy beach.
Hotel Executive

This massive hotel on the north end of the Brera district has rooms decorated in a sumptuous antique style, masking its range of high-tech amenities. There’s a full-fledged business centre and 21 meeting rooms.
Hotel Star

This modern hotel sits on a quiet side-street between the hopping Brera neighbourhood and the Castello. The parquet floors with their Oriental rugs support orthopaedic beds and slightly worn, functional furnishings. The baths, however, are ultra-modern; some with hydromassage showers.
Hotel Victoria, Varenna

Just across the lake from Bellagio, the Hotel Victoria sits across the plaza from a Roman Church. Our room was a bit noisy, the door was over the stairwell to the restaurant, but it made up for it with a beautiful patio off the bedroom. The patio was high up the hillside and overlooked the entire lake. Hotels in Varenna are priced more reasonable than their counterparts in Bellagio, and a short ferry ride is the perfect introduction to the beautiful town of Bellagio. Often billed as Europe's most romantic town, I have to agree that Bellagio is one of the most blissful places I've ever been.
I Due Roccoli, Iseo

Set in its own quiet park high above the lake on the road to Polaveno, this family-run hotel offers a countryside escape of rustic-tinged rooms and splendid views of the lake and mountains. There are tennis courts, a pool and an excellent restaurant (see I Due Roccoli, Iseo, Lake Iseo).
I Due Roccoli, Iseo, Lake Iseo

The restaurant of an excellent hotel set high above the town of Iseo. Refined regional food is served on a patio overlooking lawns and woods (see I Due Roccoli, Lake Iseo).
I Due Roccoli, Lake Iseo

Here, when the weather is fine, you can dine on the terracotta terrace high in the hills above Iseo, with a view across a rose-fringed lawn to forested mountains beyond. The cooking is superb, and makes wonderful use of lake fish and other fresh local ingredients (see I Due Roccoli, Iseo, Lake Iseo).

Lake fish
I Navigli

A city as grand as Milan needed a port, so the long pool of the Darsena was dug in the 12th century, with the Naviglio Grande – a 50-km/30-mile canal stretching to the Mincio River (and thence the Po to the Adriatic) – leading into it. Today, the Navigli district is Milan’s most lively, bohemian neighbourhood. Its old warehouses now contain fashionable apartments and the towpaths are lined with restaurants, clubs, bars and shops. Its streets teem nightly with foodies out for a fine meal, young folks cruising the bars and street vendors spreading out sheets and rickety tables to form an impromptu bazaar. This is the only part of the city that stays open during the dog days of August.
I Panini della Befi

Very popular panino bar at lunch, with umbrella-shaded tables on a pedestrian street. Stellar sandwiches, decent coffee.

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Hotel price categories

For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
- under €110
- €110-€160
- €160-€210
- €210-€270
- over €270
Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20-€30
- €30-€40
- €40-€50
- over €50